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Jun 2, 2011
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only? SteveP
From tehachapi, CA
Joined Apr 22, 2009
0 points
Jun 2, 2011
I do miss the fiddling and messin' with sizes and fit with the hexcentrics. Cams just plug in so fast, you lose that personal touch with the rock that hex nuts gave you time to develop. And when cams got boring, along came pre-bolted sport climbing! Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
505 points
Jun 2, 2011
I regularly go without cams. A true master will lead without them I think. Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
10,900 points
Jun 2, 2011
What's so funny pink pointer? Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
10,900 points
Jun 3, 2011
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?

I eagerly await your hex-only ascent of Luxury Liner, be sure to YouTube it.
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
210 points
Jun 3, 2011
passivism? I tried passivisim once, not in 'nam of course... Dustin B
From Steamboat
Joined Jan 29, 2006
1,065 points
Jun 3, 2011
I'm an activist, I seldom even gear up with passive gear. And then I boast about it online how I made the send without nuts. It makes me feel elite. alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Joined Jun 12, 2010
115 points
Jun 3, 2011
Yes the old guys did, but they also had balls. Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
35 points
Jun 3, 2011
I'm going to be an activist... from now on, only cams! Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Joined May 30, 2007
5 points
Jun 3, 2011
Willa wrote:
Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought. —Basho


A flute with no holes is not a flute. A doughnut with no hole . . . is a danish.
-The great philosopher Basho
Cory Harelson
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 25, 2008
2,330 points
Jun 3, 2011
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?


As much as a love the passive, I find there are a few routes that have quite parallel side that are hard to protect with passives. Cams do the trick there. Ill whip all day on a solid hex for sure.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
70 points
Jun 3, 2011
Brent Apgar wrote:
Yes the old guys did, but they also had balls.


Lack of other options probably had something to do with their testicular fortitude as well. It's funny, you don't really see those guys and gals of yore using an all passive rack nowadays.
Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,055 points
Jun 3, 2011
JLP wrote:
Your profile seems to have more of these than any other I have seen. It's so obvious you are a proginy of The Lake. It's good to know all those old guys are still around, keeping the 70's alive


Perhaps you misunderstand the term "pink-point"? It refers to the use of pre-placed gear, the epitome being sport climbing. I have done much "head-pointing" in which I inspect gear and moves on top rope although I always place gear on lead. I most definitely prefer the on-sight method but I am much too weak a climber to always employ it.

Goggle "Jason Huston" for an example of a shameless pink-pointer.
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
10,900 points
Jun 3, 2011
First off, I love placing my hexes early, nothing like running out of cams before the crux.
Second, bit of a thread drift, put does using fixed pro, such as a pin, make a climb a pink point in anybody's book?
Josh Olson
From Durango, CO
Joined Mar 7, 2010
260 points
Jun 3, 2011
JLP wrote:
I think my misunderstanding is with your tick list. Help me out out here. Puffs Plus 5.4 .. BF OS PPro. ---> You did this with your boyfriend, onsight, with preplaced gear? I see you climb 5.13, but all I see are a load of 7-9's and a few 10's. Most of the other 13 climbers here have a whole lot of 12's.


"BF" = Barefoot. "OS" = Onsight. "PP" or "PPro" = Passive Pro.

My profile says I can follow sport 13, which I can. I climb mostly all trad and my profile says I lead 5.10d and follow 5.12a, which is true. I don't climb much sport hence the lack of 5.12.
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
10,900 points
Administrator
Jun 3, 2011
SteveP wrote:
who needs cams? I got doubles of all the big hexes Ill likely need, and enough nuts to go around. didn't the old guys go with nuts only?


Just make sure you have a hammer for the hexes... for when you're in parallel cracks.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,215 points
Jun 5, 2011
I have started bringing along hexes again and have found that on many moderate routes (5.8, 5.9) there are many bomber placements. Plus I can most often use them to setup anchors, so I don't eat up the cams I would want for the next pitch. Bill M
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jun 30, 2010
101 points
Jun 5, 2011
Wow Jason, sounds like you've HAD IT. Well I guess it's kinda weak at this point to hope that Nick Rhoades 'baby pass' (no, you can't watch my kid dude)is a photoshop aide job.

I've done some 'all nut ascent,' but have many more to go before I become a passiveist (is that a german word?)

Steve
mcarizona
From Flag
Joined Feb 5, 2007
25 points
Jun 5, 2011
This thread is starting to get good.

Hate to say it Nick but ya had that comin'
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
0 points
Jun 6, 2011
Cory wrote:
A flute with no holes is not a flute. A doughnut with no hole . . . is a danish. -The great philosopher Basho


"Trying to be bitchin can come at the risk of being instead, a complete fool. But, not trying at all, and hence never risking being a fool, can come at the price of never being bitchin even once" - Chongo
Travis Spaulding
From Las Vegas, NV.
Joined Nov 23, 2010
0 points


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