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Split creek cracks
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Passive Pro-gression 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Johnson maybe?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Jeff J. on Oct 14, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: fun lead

Description 

From the stairs heading to chockstone tower, find a crack with a couple good hand jams leading up to a roof and exiting left to a notch. The crux is just below the blocky roof. I would consider following the crack, then going climbers right till head level with the roof to slot a nut in a verical crack, climbing down a move or two under the roof and then finishing left as this is the cleaner climb. Passive pro makes this a fun trad lead...but feel free to plug some cams. Be careful of bad rock in the roof. For a variation, feel free to climb straight up and over the roof, but you might have to garden a bit to make it better...so please dont garden!

Location 

halfway between stairs and chockstone tower. flat face interrupted by a this crack that starts just above a small rock ledge

Protection 

Trad is the way to go. Set of nuts, hexes, curved hexes if you have them. Some webbing or chord for tree anchors. bad/dead trees for anchors up top so probably dont tr and weight this all day


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