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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: Ron Olevsky, FFA: Chuck Grossman
Page Views: 5,247
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Sean on PFP.


This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.

Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.


This is the obvious corner at the top of the trail.


A handful of each, #0.4 to #2 (maybe one #2) Camalots, plus a small TCU size piece if you want to protect the moves over the Chinle roof.

Photos of Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean on PFP.
Sean on PFP.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumping out.
Pumping out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leah Frazer on Passion for Pumping.
Leah Frazer on Passion for Pumping.

Comments on Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station Add Comment
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By slim
Feb 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

If I remember correctly, Desert Rock lists this route as 'Passion for Pumping', but I have heard Ron Olevsky (FA, I think) call it 'Corner Pump Station'. Either name is fairly fitting.

Also, again if I remember correctly, this thing is heavy on the #0.5 to #0.75 Camalot. I mostly remember looking at it and thinking that I was going to jam it straight on. This mother IMMEDIATELY threw my ass in a layback, and I knew I was in trouble. I got so pumped that my brains almost squirted out of my ears.

Not sure if the original anchor is still up there, but it used to be a weird, 3 piece deal on 2 walls and maybe a block, all strung together like a huge diaper.

Awesome route.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Mar 1, 2010

Chuck did it free. Ron aided it a day or two before.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 29, 2011

Chuck Grossman did the first free ascent of this. Ron's name should be put in its place as a A1 ascent.
By Martin Harris
Nov 17, 2011

Got a tr burn, and this thing is heinous and dope. New inspiration to get better and make 0.5 and 0.75 a fun size.
By Gajewski
Mar 13, 2017

Contrary to what some have said, I would advise on bringing a few more #1 C4s (or equivalent pieces) for the upper section.

Only used 2 #0.5s and maybe 3 #0.75s but definitely found myself wishing I had brought more than 2 1s as I was exiting the route.

Be careful on the start of the route, it's a tad crumbly!

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