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Pas de Deux, Original Route T 

Pas de Deux 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gib Lewis and Tobin Sorenson, May 1974
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Like many routes on the South Face, Pas De Deux is really only an option when the weather is cooler. The route starts at a large tree at the "outside" corner right of the Innominate.

Climb cracks to a bulge where a curiously hard mantle leads to the first bolt. Step left and up a short ramp to the roof. Pass the roof on large holds moving across the top of the roof before a stop across to the next bolt (protection possible). Continue on the path of least resistance (up and right), being careful not to miss the oddly placed 4th bolt, which is left of the obvious line. At the fifth bolt, you can continue to the last bolt on Pas de Deux, Original Route, which is visible almost directly up, or move left through one more bolt to the end of the pitch. There is an obvious belay crack well below the summit. If one is uncomfortable on 3rd/4th class terrain another easy pitch can be done to the top.

This pitch, graded 5.10b or 5.10b/c in versions of the guidebook is very stiff for that grade. The mantle alone may price it out of that range and there is sustained slab climbing throughout.


Right side of the South Face. Belay by a tree under the corner with a roof.


6 bolts, light rack with finger through hands.

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By Robin like the bird
From: mountain center ,CA
Apr 11, 2012

Mantle is hard and scary. Maybe I was missing a placement, but if you pitched at the mantle, there is a real possibility of hitting the deck. My option is that it is just as hard if not a harder then the mantle on vampire!
By Adam Stackhouse
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13


I belayed my partner in 1998 or so who pitched off of that mantle. He had a sling around a feature and it held, but even with my professional belaying, his booty came within two feet of decking.

By Tradiban
Feb 16, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Got a nice gray X4 hand level on the mantle, on the right side. However, blowing the mantle would fling you around the right side into ugly territory. Lots of thin loose flakes over the mantle and after the last bolt. Good moves though, just watch out for thin flaky crimps.

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