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Party Time T 
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Where Lizards Dare T 

Party Time 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: B. Molzon, 1977
Season: Any, faces W/SW
Page Views: 6,458
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006  with updates from Troy Shellhamer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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View of the trad follower from the top of the firs...


One of the nicest moderate trad routes in the Red, and it takes good gear if you have it. The first pitch takes a few larger cams (perhaps to 4") and the second pitch a standard light rack. Bolted belay/rap anchors make this climb a good first multi-pitch.

The ledge where the anchors are to end the first pitch is pretty small and can hold 4 people max.


On the far right side of Fortress Wall, where it faces west you can walk right to a point where the first of two huge left-facing corners becomes visible. This is Party Time (5.7). Do not pass this and start up the second corner by mistake (Lost In Space, 5.10)


A few large cams for the leaning start, then head for the top on a standard rack. With a few longer slings, this could be done in a single pitch. But the bolted anchors make breaking it up quite easy.

Photos of Party Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A super flattering picture of me on Party Time.......
A super flattering picture of me on Party Time.......
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent 1st pitch of Party Time.
Excellent 1st pitch of Party Time.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb Starts Up Party Time (5.7, Fortress Wall...
Tony Bubb Starts Up Party Time (5.7, Fortress Wall...

Comments on Party Time Add Comment
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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Nov 6, 2007

The first pitch is nothing to go out of your way for, but the second pitch is excellent!
By skiny
Sep 30, 2010

Love this climb!!! Haven't been to Red River in decades (living in Utah now). Read the comment about the second pitch and was left scratching my head...but then knocked some cob webs out and remembered faintly that this was originally listed as having 3 pitches, the 3rd a worthless 15 feet to the top. We always run pitches 1 & 2 as one long pitch, though it's wise for the last one down to rap it in two pitches for the sake of rope retrieval. I had the good fortune of loosing the race with a setting sun during a full moon. The whole face was covered in moon light. It was incredible!!!!! Back in the day of hexes, this climb was rated 5.6.
By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Mar 3, 2014

Great climb! Both pitches just eat gear so easy to protect, but yes, so #3 and even #3.5 or #4 Camelots are nice to have along (for both pitches). Second pitch is definitely the money pitch, but both are fun. Gorgeous view up top! Great intro to multi-pitch.

Nice new anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch, but the anchors for the first pitch have seen better days. The chains are showing very significant notches on the bolt hanger end.
By Eli Sorna
From: ohio
Nov 7, 2016

Just a great route done again this past weekend (Nov 5) takes gear very well anchors at first pitch (40-50') and at the top. Very wide view of the gorge and in my opinion the best Multipitch at this wall, better than Bonzo.
By Marsh.king
From: Olney
May 24, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is my personal favorite at fortress wall. The first pitch doesn't get as much praise as it should but the second pitch is without a doubt five stars. The second pitch varies in size and even has a few offwidth moves halfway up. Better than bedtime for bonzo for sure.

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