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Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ariel T 
Armed Forces S 
Arms Reduction T 
Army T 
Better Than Better Than Love T 
Better than Love T 
Casual Slabs T 
Forget Me Not T 
Guardian, The S 
Gunky T 
In God We Trust T 
Inscrutable T 
Like Hell It Is T 
Love T 
Party Of One T 
Seeker, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Wanderer, The T 
What, What? TR 
Who, Who? T 

Party Of One 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Jim Erikson, free solo, 1978
Season: open all year, but it is difficult to access in snow. Gets AM shade
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Tony B on May 20, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The flaky overhanging start of Party Of One should...

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  • Description 

    This is a reasonable route that could use some more cleaning, though we cleaned it up quite a bit already.

    Climb up the steady overhang getting a few surprisingly good flakes and avoiding some not-so-obviously bad ones (but bad none the less). **Stretch** up over a crux to place a hand or large-sized cam (3"), and pull through with the gear above you on some questionable feet.

    Once established up there, the next 90' are easier climbing but for an awkward bulge here and there. Sparse protection is adequate and seems to come when you want or need it.

    Save a 2 or 2.5" piece for a directional, and beware that the top crack is a rope jammer/eater. I put a barkless stick in it to prop the rope out on a 'bearing' of sorts and it was a tremendous help. The stick is still up there. Lastly, I wore stiff high-tops on the climb, because I expected OW. There is far more (that being any) sloper, rounded feet than actual OW climbing with feet, so sport shoes or at least softer ones would have been much better.

    Location 

    To the left of Love and Better Than Love, there is another peak/tower on the cliffline. Back in a slightly obtuse corner there is a flaky overhang that ascends several body-lengths to reach a ledge, jam, then OW....

    Getting to that crack overhangs solidly and steadily and is the crux.

    Protection 

    I climbed this with Camalots from #0.5 to #6. I had doubles of #5 and #6, and could have placed another #1, 2, and 3 and been happy about it.

    Most useful of all on this route were the yellow and purple at the crux at the bottom, behind flakes. What I *WISH* I'd had was a 2-2.5" Friend, HB, FCU, or likewise. Anything shorter along the axle than the red Camalot, which was 1/4" too long along the axle to fit in the only REALLY solid placement before pulling the crux. So take such a thing and be happier....


    Photos of Party Of One Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: It does work into an OW at some point... just befo...
    It does work into an OW at some point... just befo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stuart sits at the base of Party Of One.  It is ac...
    Stuart sits at the base of Party Of One. It is ac...

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