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Partners in Crime 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 3,242
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2001

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Pascal on Partners (during sunset).


This has a height-dependent start. Find the perfect round hole in the face, then look up for the next hold. This will test your ape index and probably fry your forearms. It is a bit sporty to the second bolt and the climbing is hard, so beware. Find superb flakes, sidepulls, and pockets all the way to the top.

Per Matt Richardson: start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow, two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2"), but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.

This is a combination of two descriptions submitted for the same route.


Bolts to chains.

Per Matt Richardson: 8 or 9 (?) draws to the top.


Per Matt Richardson: This incredible route is sandwiched immediately between Helter Skelter and Pedestrian Gene Pool (11b) to the left of the crack separating Cyborg and Village Idiot.

Photos of Partners in Crime Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: New anchors.  Hardware provided by ASCA.
BETA PHOTO: New anchors. Hardware provided by ASCA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Darkness chasing Falon.
Darkness chasing Falon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux. Photo by Dr. Caroline Schoo, E...
Just past the crux. Photo by Dr. Caroline Schoo, E...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin on Partners.
Austin on Partners.
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin on Partners.
Austin on Partners.
Rock Climbing Photo: Old anchors....
BETA PHOTO: Old anchors....
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam onsighting Partners in Crime.
Sam onsighting Partners in Crime.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruisin' up another one of those "Partner's i...
Cruisin' up another one of those "Partner's i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux.
Just past the crux.

Comments on Partners in Crime Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Harrison Fox - That perfectly round hole at the start of the route is an awesome hold. First use it as a pocket and then an undercling. If you get your feet up high and undercling like crazy it makes the reach to the next hold a piece of cake.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 9, 2005

I believe Kevin McLaughlin did the FFA on this one, and I think he originally called it Partners in Climb....
By SCherry
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2006

Tried and tried this route in the spring of this year. At 5'8", it felt quite desperate, and I actually never sent the crux. If you can't span the reach from underclinging good pocket, you must use a couple of really bad holds, or throw a huge dyno. Must be at least 5.12 for those short folks. Any comments/suggestions?
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2007

I found the crux to be doable using small intermediate holds, and I'm 5'5". The sequence seems height-dependent: the 4 of us who tried this route each did the crux differently. To me it seemed like a choice between using the crimpy intermediates or doing a dyno.
By Andrew Iltis
From: Denver, CO
Jun 12, 2007

The description given is a little misleading. The first bolt is a bit high, but is gained by easy moves to a jug pocket to clip from. Tall persons are able to bypass two tiny pockets with high feet and a long reach up and left to a good edge. Shorter persons must do two extra V3-ish moves on crappy feet to gain the good edge and higher jugs. The rest of the route is sustained and somewhat reachy. One clip in particular tests the 24 hr underarm deoderant you appied two days before. All in all, this makes a great redpoint for those who max out in the upper .11s.
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 21, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I am not sure what is misleading about this description - the first bolt (and all other bolts) seem reasonably placed if the route is within your ability. I climbed this route with a girl who is 5' tall and she seemed to have no problem with it, so I am not sure what Andrew means by "reachy". I do believe that the bottom-most crux is probably more difficult the shorter you are.
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 8, 2008

F.A. K. McLaughlin, Glenn Schuler. Good quality limestone all the way. A great route at this grade (a bit tougher if you are not so tall). We were the "Partners In Crime" on this one.
By SCherry
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2008

Went back to this one on 2/9/08. It's either small fingers or being tall to have an advantage on the low crux at the first bolt. Definitely feels 11+/12- to me! But a great climb no matter what.
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Glad I didn't read the paragraphs of beta spewing on this post before I did the route. Geeze, it's even in the actual route description....
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Anchors replaced 12/10/11. Big thanks to ASCA for providing the hardware!
By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Dec 12, 2011

Thanks, Derek!
By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Onsight to retrieve draws led to a very enjoyable climb. It's an understatement to say that it's a bouldery start. It is a bonafide Boulder problem. Great climb! Accurate grade.*
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Mar 26, 2014

Stretch your pecs prior to sending/not a warm-up route exactly.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The opening moves on this are harder for me than any of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf, or any of the 12a-12b McLaughlin/Schuler routes I've been on in the S-Platte. I can see it being 11c if you're tall and have the reach, but not at 5'7"....

Regardless, it's a beautiful route. The upper part is great, sustained low-5.11 climbing.

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