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Gulley No.1 Buttress
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Land Ahoy T 
Lead Poisoning  T 
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Part the Sea T 
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Superior Races, The T 

Part the Sea 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looks like a "Parted Sea" of Lichen to m...


Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor.


The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb. The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned-off line through a "sea " of lichen.

To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).


Standard rack to 3.5 inches.Don't forget the Tricams!The climb can seem runout just below the anchor if you don't find the small cam placement inside one of the crystal pockets near the top.

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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Beautiful, solid climbing, 100% trad protection to the dbl bolt anchor, with only one "thin-ish" move near the bottom. Never found the tricam placement in the run-out 5.3-5.4 to the anchor. At one point it looked like a #3 Camalot would work, but tugs on it kept it slipping 1/2 inch to totally expand it.

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