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Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress
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Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,552 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Bob A on Jun 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor. All trad gear, bring your Tricams if you have ‘em.
In late 2017 AJ Hunter cleaned and put in a 2nd pitch to this climb (he called it "The Ten Comandments") Be sure not to overlook Bolt #1 while looking up at B#2 and #3, and also take the trad gear (esp. medium nuts) or you'll be way running it out. The rap from the top anchor to the dbl bolt anchor on Part the Sea requires a full-length 70m rope !
Location
The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb. The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned-off line through a "sea " of lichen.
To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).
To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).
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