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Guard Tower
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L to R R to L Alpha
Pardon T,S 
Parole T,S,TR 
Probation T 
Warden S 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ben Burnham, 1999
Page Views: 1,154
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Mar 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Derek cruising the crux on his on site.


Center route on the guard tower formation. This route is pretty fun on TR, not sure how the pro in the crack is, and maybe a fun lead if the bolt had a hanger. Thin moves up to a crack and a tricky crux to reach above the roof, then a fun pull over it.


Bolt (missing hanger) + a few gear placements, chains up top

Photos of Parole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing the lower section of "Parole"...
Me climbing the lower section of "Parole"...

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By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Mar 23, 2008

That hanger has been MIA for year's now! Pretty lame as this is a pretty popular area.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

There's a bomber #1 camelot placement about 3" right of the hangerless bolt.

The hangerless bolts got that way after I mentioned the placement to Ben (having onsighted it with all gear.) He told me he'd take the bolt out. Looks like he just took the hanger off instead. :-(

There's also room for decent pro probably in the green to yellow alien range under the roof, but the placement next to the bolt is much much better.

This was my first 5.10 trad lead many years ago, I think. Just top-roped it recently, and found it plenty challenging.

For what it's worth, the gear in the thin crack is fantastic. As I recall, I sewed it up pretty good with nuts and small cams.
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 21, 2010

You can sling the bolt with a nut.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

So if you sling the hanger-less bolt with a nut is it still a trad climb? haha. So I climbed this on TR after my girl lead "Probation" this is a FUN climb with a lot of different kinds of moves on a single route. Lieback crack, face, roof lip move with highstep/heel hook, jug hauling, ect... The crux is the 10' crack/blank section below the roof and maybe the roof move if you are short.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

A bit runout at bottom and top, adequate but fiddly gear in the middle.

Would have felt better w a good stopper in the crack but only brought one I had to save to sling the bolt stud.
By Tomily ma
Jan 4, 2015

We got on this today solely because it was in the sun. I've walked passed this climb a dozen times and it never piqued my interest until today, but I'm glad I did. It's a good lead. It's fun. Crux is cool. Roof is cool. Runout over easier ground but good pro where you need it.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2015

The bolt at the roof has a new hanger now. A medium tricam helps if you want pro above the roof before the anchor. It's easy, but a fall would be horrible.

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