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Parmotrema Arnoldii 

WI5-6 M7+ A0 PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 240', Grade III
Original: WI5-6 M7+ A0 PG13 [details]
FA: Dave Rone & Jon Jugenheimer
New Route: Yes
Season: Feb-March
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on May 22, 2016

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The start of pitch 4


Parmotrema Arnoldii, A type of Lichen. Possibly the type found on the 4th pitch keeping the microscopic edges hidden, and offering the illusion of security, only to rip once pulling down. You will fully understand once you get there...

Four short, but involved pitches from the ground to the very top of the cliff provide a real mountain experience deep in the woods of the Midwest-a rare treat for us that call this slice of the country home.

Pitch 1. Start up a ramp to severely broken rock, cleaning was done on the FA. Climb up and left to under the roof. Gear is found above in the crack. Traverse up and left more to gain the ice to surmount the roof by turnings its side. Continue up and slightly left again following the crack in the slab. belay at the single bolt that can be equalized with a pecker.

Pitch 2. Traverse straight right on the slab/foot ledge. A pin and a cam protect this bit before the corner. At the corner, climb vertical 5/6 ice to the top of the pillar.
Set a hanging belay here off Screws.

Pitch 3. The FA traversed left around the corner utilizing a single bolt placed while on tension from Kb in the thin seam to gain the ice to climb above the roof. If possible, and in better style, climb the dagger climbers right of the belay to gain the roof if present, it was not during the FA. Continue straight up via scary snow covered/verglass slab climbing to a head wall above. Good gear is a welcome relief below the headwall! clip a long runner on the one or two excellent cams found and traverse right around the corner and up a few more meters. Set a belay on ice if present. If there isn't any ice, Hope you brought a drill...

Pitch 4, the crux. Climb right from the belay two meters, than straight up the horror show above. Use all your alpine trickery, shitty cams, pound in's (sprecter here!) nuts and a hope to get you up this pitch. M7/M8/M?? who knows. Climb the groove, up left over the vertical bit under the small roof and then left again to finally overcome the last pitch. Trench up another 20 meters or so to the large trees above to set a belay.

We made one single rap to the belay on the top of pitch three, then one double rope rap to the ground from a V thread.

Bring a headlamp, if the wall is all snowed up, the climbing will take awhile as it is slightly insecure slab climbing most of the way.


Left of Book of Saturdays, the climb can easily be found via the large break in the top of the cliff line. That break is pitch 4, the exit pitch into the forest above.


Bring a standard mixed trad rack of small TCU's to a #3 C4, a single rack of wires, 4 Kb's (two long, two short) a large Pecker and a specter. Also, 2 stubbies, 1 super stubbie, 2 13's and a few 16cm screws should get you up. On the first ascent, we hauled a drill with us and placed two bolts on route. One at the top of the first pitch to make the belay (equalizing a pecker) and one on pitch three to turn the corner back onto the ice, due to no natural gear.

Photos of Parmotrema Arnoldii Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: beta pic of the route
BETA PHOTO: beta pic of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch three traverse from the hanging belay
Pitch three traverse from the hanging belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two traverse
Pitch two traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: The business on pitch 4
The business on pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one
Pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one
Pitch one

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