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Park Ranger 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,405
Submitted By: Cat Cahoon on Apr 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo from original post

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1: (5.9) Godzilla

Pitch 2: (5.9) From the anchor, traverse right (one bolt) to the major corner with a large flake. (optional belay from chain anchor on a ledge off right after the large flake to reduce rope drag) Above the flake, traverse left (reach) into a finger crack then pull steep jugs to see the anchor on a nice ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Start climbing right of the belay traveling back left above the belay. Up cracks to a slabby traverse left (bolt) with good feet. Follow crack up to a flare. Can climb flare or stem right of flare. Belay from chains by a tree.

Pitch 4: (5.9) Follow handcrack in left facing corner up to a bolt on a dark pillar. Stem through blocky bulge to low angle finger crack.From there, go right to a chain anchor. (This last part is vegetated)

Descent: Rap the route with a 70m rope


Double rack to #3, long slings and draws, 70m rope.

Photos of Park Ranger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: View from the parking lot
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of Pitch 1 of Godzilla, you can trave...
BETA PHOTO: From the top of Pitch 1 of Godzilla, you can trave...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the flare on P3
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the flare on P3

Comments on Park Ranger Add Comment
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By Aaron O
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2016

Has anyone climbed this recently? I looked at it yesterday and it looked pretty dirty. Pretty awesome to have a 4 pitch 5.9 at the LTW, and I am bummed I wasn't prepared to do some cleaning.
By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If that third pitch is a 5.9, it's the hardest 5.9 at Index. A full value pitch for sure, likely easier if cleaner, but 5.9? It was noticeably harder than the two pitches that preceded it.
By Tammy Le
Sep 27, 2016

First 3 pitches were amazing, 4th pitch was a dirty, dirty bush grovel which I wouldn't do again until someone cleaned it. However, I would happily re-do the first 3 pitches again and again, they were that amazing!

Pitch 1: See Godzilla for info.

Pitch 2: Easiest pitch in terms of technique, but had a few power moves with poor feet. Gear protected pretty well though, so didn't feel dangerous! Super fun for sure!

Pitch 3: The money pitch in my opinion! If you're not used to wider, slightly flaring cracks, it can seem a lot harder than 5.9. First half was some absolutely amazing hands/fists, but the second half is where the grunt work came into play! Definitely got some good thigh jams in, and did a good amount of sweating to squeeze my way up through the flaring crack. Did it on a typical double rack, didn't feel like I was low on gear.

Pitch 4: Dirty, dirty grovelling mess with tons of spiderwebs when I did it in July 2016. I would not recommend it until someone goes up to clean it. It had some cool movements, but was so dirty, it was not particularly enjoyable. The last bit to the anchors was especially awful, requiring you to pull through vegetation.
By kevinoh Holte
Jul 4, 2017

Couldn't believe there was a 5.9 link up of the lower town wall until I did it, super cool. Would definitely do it again.
Still dirty up top. Adventure climbing status in a few places where it is easier.
For P1 you could belay after the traverse, at the base of the finger crack, if the belay at godzilla is crowded and you mind rope drag.
P2 Awesome but the finger crack is over too soon.
P3 The chimney part protects well and was a surprise but didn't feel crazy for the grade.
P4 Dirty in spots. Will get better with every lap it sees.
By Aaron O
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 11, 2017

Well I posted about a year ago asking out this, and found out for myself yesterday! Great climb. We thought route finding was a little harder than we expected. Not all of the moves or cracks you are supposed take are obvious. A couple run out sections, but overall the pro is very good. Pitch 3 felt harder than 5.9, especially at the flare, but maybe it was because I was a bit pumped by the time I got to it. We did not do P4, as it was very vegetated. A fantastic way to end is to do a short wrap down and to climbers left and set up a TR on Slow Children if you don't want to lead it.

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