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Park Ranger 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,196
Submitted By: Cat Cahoon on Apr 11, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Topo from original post

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: (5.9) Godzilla

Pitch 2: (5.9) From the anchor, traverse right (one bolt) to the major corner with a large flake. (optional belay from chain anchor on a ledge off right after the large flake to reduce rope drag) Above the flake, traverse left (reach) into a finger crack then pull steep jugs to see the anchor on a nice ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Start climbing right of the belay traveling back left above the belay. Up cracks to a slabby traverse left (bolt) with good feet. Follow crack up to a flare. Can climb flare or stem right of flare. Belay from chains by a tree.

Pitch 4: (5.9) Follow handcrack in left facing corner up to a bolt on a dark pillar. Stem through blocky bulge to low angle finger crack.From there, go right to a chain anchor. (This last part is vegetated)

Descent: Rap the route with a 70m rope

Protection 

Double rack to #3, long slings and draws, 70m rope.


Photos of Park Ranger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: View from the parking lot
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of Pitch 1 of Godzilla, you can trave...
BETA PHOTO: From the top of Pitch 1 of Godzilla, you can trave...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the flare on P3
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the flare on P3

Comments on Park Ranger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron O
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2016

Has anyone climbed this recently? I looked at it yesterday and it looked pretty dirty. Pretty awesome to have a 4 pitch 5.9 at the LTW, and I am bummed I wasn't prepared to do some cleaning.
By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If that third pitch is a 5.9, it's the hardest 5.9 at Index. A full value pitch for sure, likely easier if cleaner, but 5.9? It was noticeably harder than the two pitches that preceded it.
By Tammy Le
Sep 27, 2016

First 3 pitches were amazing, 4th pitch was a dirty, dirty bush grovel which I wouldn't do again until someone cleaned it. However, I would happily re-do the first 3 pitches again and again, they were that amazing!

Pitch 1: See Godzilla for info.

Pitch 2: Easiest pitch in terms of technique, but had a few power moves with poor feet. Gear protected pretty well though, so didn't feel dangerous! Super fun for sure!

Pitch 3: The money pitch in my opinion! If you're not used to wider, slightly flaring cracks, it can seem a lot harder than 5.9. First half was some absolutely amazing hands/fists, but the second half is where the grunt work came into play! Definitely got some good thigh jams in, and did a good amount of sweating to squeeze my way up through the flaring crack. Did it on a typical double rack, didn't feel like I was low on gear.

Pitch 4: Dirty, dirty grovelling mess with tons of spiderwebs when I did it in July 2016. I would not recommend it until someone goes up to clean it. It had some cool movements, but was so dirty, it was not particularly enjoyable. The last bit to the anchors was especially awful, requiring you to pull through vegetation.