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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jun 23, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Beta for climb


Scramble up into the shallow scoop to gain a comfortable stance to clip the high first bolt. Make a couple more moves using holds on the right to a semi-reachy clip to the second bolt. The reachy clip is nice because it puts you on mini toprope as you move into the crux of the route--getting up to and clipping the third bolt.
To get to the third clip, make some steep, awkward layback or gaston-type moves to reach the nice handrail-like hold right of the bolt. When moving past the third bolt try not to step on the second bolt that is placed in what appears to be the best foot hold area on the faint arete. If you're very careful you might be able to place your toes around the bolt while you move up.
A couple more tedious moves get you up to a huge horn and the fourth bolt. The fifth clip is just a short distance up on easier ground and more easier ground to the chains.

FA information would be appreciated.


This climb is in the center of the short broken cliffband that extends to the left of Cattle Call Wall. It's about 50 yards to the left of Cattle Call Wall. Look for the strong black streak on the wall near the middle of the wall. The route ascends this streak.


5 bolts to anchor chains equipped with carabiners.

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 23, 2008

The 5.11c rating is a guess at the rating. Three people in our group are generally solid 5.11 climbers and they all had a fair amount of difficulty with the crux. I'm pretty tall and managed it fairly well so I'll suggest it's easier if you're taller.
By Dave Wachter
Jul 12, 2008

Chossy and sharp; little sustained interesting climbing; poorly placed second bolt. No stars.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Jul 14, 2008

I've got to agree with Dave, very little interesting climbing on rock that will probably be slow to clean up if ever. One of the cruxes is definitly not stepping on the second bolt. But I might just not like it because I failed to flash it.
By Mikey Fisher
Jan 18, 2015

Is there a image fore this route? If it goes up a wide black streak to the left of cattle cow wall i do believe it is a old route bolted called "Paranoia" 11.C very strange climb. Inconsistent with a few good moves. Bolt up over the ledge in black could of been placed higher?
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 19, 2015

I don't have a photo of it Mikey but from your description and mine here, I'd say were talking about the same route. Any idea who bolted it and/or had the FA? Thanks.

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