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Paralleling 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Joe Lackey and Thomas Kelley
Page Views: 2,497
Submitted By: BirminghamBen on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Paralleling...Ryan on P2. Paul and me cowering at ...

Description 

P1: Climb directly up between two water grooves passing a #2 Camalot placementand five bolts to a bolted belay (a few 10 moves).

P2: Continue up between the grooves, past five more bolts, and one white tricam placement, then up a steeper section to a belay on a tree ledge (sustained 10).

Rap: Move Right and rappel from double bolts on the top of Jiffy Pop Queen.

Location 

50' right of Joke the Chicken, at the leftmost end of the main cliff in an overlap.

Protection 

A #2 Camalot and a few draws for P1.
A white tricam and a few draws for P2.

Maybe a smattering of other small gear in case you find something else.


Photos of Paralleling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Paralleling P1
Paralleling P1

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By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Jun 15, 2009

Pitch one is straight forward with a #2 camalot placement at about 25' and four or five more bolts over a total of around 140'.

Pitch two is five bolts with one placement between the first and 2nd that cuts the runout in half...a white tricam in a shallow horizontal.

1st pitch has a few easy 5.10 moves mid pitch, with a hard, high-step if you take the right groove to the belay. Taking the left groove yields a couple moves a letter grade or two easier than the right groove, but is challenging nonetheless and more sustained.

2nd pitch is consistently sustained with much of the climbing at easy 10 or harder. Stemming the grooves tames the technicality a bit, but at the cost of burning calves.

A fall on this route would be LONG and slabby, but not incredibly dangerous as the granite is very smooth. Typical spacing between bolts and the few placements is around 20'.

Belay in a horizontal above on medium to large cams. Move climber's right to anchors on a neighboring route. Two double rope rappels to the ground.
By jeep gaskin
Sep 2, 2011

i place a 0 tcu and a #1 rock equalized between bolts 1 and 2. at bolt 3 you'll have to do a couple hard moves beginning with the bolt at your shoes. the crux is at bolt 4 and the fall is safe. use every option in both grooves and the hunk between them. there is a #2/3 camalot placement after the last bolt on pitch 2. the belay is on cams, 1 to 2 inches. the rap line, if you're facing out is just beyond the bush to your left. don't go to the ratty tree and belay. you'll just have to down climb to the rap anchors.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I would give the finish to P1 an R rating, not PG13. A fall near the anchor of P1 over the bulge would have consequences to your ankles or the back of your head. The falls on the rest of the route would just result in slides.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Apr 10, 2016

On P1, I attempted to go straight up the right groove to the 5th bolt and found it to be much harder than I expected. after down climbing back to the fourth bolt (yea yea), I angled up and right of the groove into some good dishes for feet but no hands. This ended up making it much easier for me to get to bolt #5.

I also didn't think the P1 finish was R. Maybe I had anchor tunnel vision, but after making the first move off the last bolt I wasn't overly concerned anymore as the finishing moves didn't seem that hard to me.

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