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Parallel Ventures 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: bw1 on Mar 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Nice exposure on solid rock. One of the better climbs on the Ruins. A bolt protects the initial face up to a mellow crack system with great gear. Continue up four bolts on the steeper face to the anchor.


7 draws, single set of stoppers

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 6, 2015
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 7, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For an expert in passive pro it might be all stoppers, but most people would want to take some small cams on this. It felt more like 10a than 10b.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2007

Medium stoppers and a few small cams do the trick. Only a few pieces needed as the upper section is bolt protected.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 3, 2009

This is one of my favorite routes at the Ruins. The gear-protected lower crux (just left of the the bulge in "Duh Bulge") makes the route for me. I usually find a blue or green alien is just perfect here.
By Boodge Nomchompski
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For some reason, I'm just not feeling the quality at the Ruins. Lots of choss. This route was ok...the only piece I placed was a black tricam. The rest of the non-bolt protected stuff is on 5.7 terrain.
By Jimbo
Feb 19, 2009

Lots of Choss, at the ruins?? Your spending too much time at the gym dude. You need to get into the back country or on any alpine route, or Sedona.
Rocks ain't always as clean as the red route at the local gym.
There's loads of climbing out there where you can't just pull on everything in site.
If the ruins is too chossy for you maybe you should stay in the gym, cause the real world of rock is gonna scare the crap out of you.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Feb 20, 2009

Yeah, I gotta agree with Jimbo here.

Up high on this route, if you go too far right, there's some loose rock. But only if you go too far right to avoid the 5.9-ish moves up there.

In general, the ruins is good solid rock (a few routes way down to the right notwithstanding)
By Boodge Nomchompski
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Jimbo, nice meeting you the other day. FWIW, I climb more outside than inside. Admittedly,as a newer climber, I've spent more time at cleaner areas. I fully understand that there are far worse areas but I guess I just expected higher quality rock with all the stars given to the routes at the ruins. I agree with Forest that some of the routes to the far right are worse. But there's no way I could give this route 3 stars when compared to other mt lemmon routes of its grade.
By Jimbo
Feb 27, 2009

I absolutly concure that the route doesn't deserve 3 stars. I also agree that the rock on the right end of the Ruins is a bit funky.
The Ruins is no Middle Earth.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 27, 2009

Don't see 3 stars here or in SQ II. Well other than Forest and he is biased because he did the 4382nd ascent.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Mar 3, 2009

Who can account for taste, I guess. Plus there is the prestige of my 4382nd ascent, like you mentioned.

I think it's really fun climbing bolted appropriately. But then it's also near the limit of what I can lead right now, so that probably makes it more enjoyable for me than for you supermen.
By Ryan Suedkamp
Dec 6, 2015

Fun climb! i thought the gear and rock was good. I thought the crux took some balance and body english. It seemed pretty different than most of the climbs at the Ruins. It is very worth doing!

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