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Parallel Universe T 
Resting Bitch Face T 

Parallel Universe 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011

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Moving into the steep bit on the FA. James Q Mart...

Description 

P-Uni is a superb face climbing pitch on the east side of the Pillar Wall. Rap in 65' to a good sloping ledge, fixed belay.

From the belay move up and left to access the crack. Enjoy some truly fabulous holds, and excellent non technical stemming for the first half of the route. After that things get a little steeper and a whole lot more powerful. Figure out a tricky little move to access the left hand seem, and then move past several boulder problems, and final pump crux at the end of the stem box. Move past hollow block, and into finger crack. Exit out left to a good jug (#3 TCU just to the right). Mantel out to the top of the wall.

Location 

Far climber's left of the Pillar Wall

Protection 

Single set from #0 TCU through #.5 Camalot. Small/medium wires. Draws, long draws.


Photos of Parallel Universe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice shot by JJ.
A nice shot by JJ.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shaking out before the last boulder problem to the...
Shaking out before the last boulder problem to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: This section marks the start of the harder climbin...
This section marks the start of the harder climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the first half...
Moving through the first half...

Comments on Parallel Universe Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 28, 2015

A tad reachy if you are 5'6" but fun. you can wander a bit right or go straight up to one of the bolts. I wandered right then back as JMo did. He later TR'd it straight up to the bolt and said it was really good too.