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Parallel Dreams 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: June 8, 2007, Tom Rosecrans, Brie Rosecrans
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Brice Ruiz on Aug 8, 2017

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Description 

P1 - 5.7+ PG: Climb unprotected first 20-25' to bolt. Swinging left, then back right to right-rising crack. Follow crack to fixed anchor. 180'

P2 - 5.7 PG: Straight up to 3' tall bulge/vertical jut from rock about 20' wide; very noticeable. Pull over bulge, then up and left to a right rising crack. Follow the crack till it ends, step slight right and follow black streak to anchor (fixed). 140'

P3 - 5.8 G (5.4X): Straight up to large bulge where rock reaches the steepest part of climb. Crux is through/over the bulge which is about 2-3 moves. Make first hard move, clip bolt, then finish crux. Short runout to vertical crack to place pro. After placing pro, heap up and left to final 100'. There are a couple small placements (bring .2-.5), but final 40-50' are unprotected. 180'

Location 

15' left of Little Finger

Protection 

Sporadic bolts, but bring cams to .75 and a full set of nuts.

All fixed anchors.


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