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Against The Grain T 
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Oompa Loompa S 
Paradox S 
Peachy Canoodle S 
Stone Staircase  S 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 1,394
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review

Route Description 

A solid contender for hardest 10d in Bolton, and certainly a proud line up a wave-like arete.

Start on the left-hand side of the arete that forms "Against The Grain" on a smattering of positive, crystalline edges. This route requires a wealth of rock craft--edging, steep face climbing, route finding (this is Bolton, after all!), and endurance. Though this route is broken up a bit, the pump clock has the tendency to "time out" on some folks who don't make use of the rests wisely.


6 or 7 bolts

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By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

really fun climb with a good mixture of holds on really steep slightly overhanging climbing, but it defiantly gets you a really good pump going. Pretty sure the route was put up not to long ago but I would be wary of the cordelette at the anchor when lowering . Tough Schist also says 11a
By Derek Doucet
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Paradox is a relatively recent addition, but that cordalette is vintage. It's actually there for Against the Grain which is a much older route, and has been in place for quite a while. Paradox really needs its own independent anchor.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Paradox now has an independent anchor. To preserve the character of the top-out while still minimizing rope wear and providing a smooth pull, it was placed high on the wall above the finishing ledge.

If this thing is 5.11, it's the easiest 5.11 in Bolton.
By john gregory
From: Lebanon, NH
Sep 30, 2013

Regular Rumney 5.11-12 leader. This felt harder than 10d-11a, especially after climbing the Fresh Meat 10b (adequately rated)right next door. Love the subjectivity of the grades, but this low-balling seems appropriate for Vermont. Regardless this is a great route with great moves and aesthetics(cliff arete). C,mon, it's bolted, go for it!!
By Rob DeBruyn
From: Burlington, VT
Jun 23, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

10d is a sandbag. 10c/d is silly.

Still a good climb, a step above the other admittedly few Bolton climbs I've been on.

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