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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Erickson, Lynn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: Hermes Lynn on May 10, 2009

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New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>


Two cruxes, technical at the bottom and endurance at the top. One of the longest pitches at the Spur. Can be broken up into two pitches using chains halfway for those with shorter ropes. A 70 meter rope is ideal, but you can use a 60 to lower with some down-climbing.


Route goes up the middle of the Main Wall to the right of the big roofs. Scurry around from the right to find the belay perch.


12 bolts to chains

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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 18, 2011

Sounds good- are there any routes in the guidebook you could give as a reference for the location?
By Mike Thorpe
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 1, 2015

This route is fun but still pretty chossy and a little dangerous. I climbed it twice during the last week and pulled off holds both times. One was an inconsequential hand hold on top section but the other was a large foot hold at the exit of the technical crux.. I'm guessing the route will be a bit harder without this hold, but probably still in the 5.11 range. If you're going to give Paradise a try have your belayer wear a helmet and be on the lookout for falling rocks.

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