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Red Devil
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Berserker T 
East Face Right/Red Devil T 
Hell Freezes Over S 
Hell in a Bucket S 
Paradise Lost S 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 
South Face T 
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Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, August 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,966
Submitted By: kyle lefkoff on Jul 28, 2007

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In search of sunshine.

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  • Description 

    Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock.

    Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided.


    Paradise Lost is located above the first switchback on the climbers trail that jogs north just before reaching the Mallory Cave. Use the NCAR parking lot and Mesa Trail access to the Mallory Cave trail for the 45 minute approach.


    9 bolts to a two bolt ring anchor. Bring a long sling for the third clip. This climb is rigged for a 60 meter rope.

    Photos of Paradise Lost Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The South Face of the Red Devil, at the base of Pa...
    BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Red Devil, at the base of Pa...

    Comments on Paradise Lost Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Forestvonsinkafinger
    From: Iowa
    May 19, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    A solid 9 with fun moves. This route is a grip of boulder problems hiding in a long sport route.
    By Chris Archer
    Sep 21, 2011
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    Fun climbing and great features, but a fall before bolts 2-6 would be grim!
    By George Bracksieck
    Jun 15, 2012

    The anchor bolt with Fixe hanger and ring is loose. Excellent climb, by the way.
    By John Worthen
    Oct 2, 2012

    I too noticed that one of the anchor bolts felt a bit loose.
    By JulianG
    Jun 7, 2015

    I just did this route today, and it is a fun route.

    I have to warn people that the 3rd bolt is bad. The scary part is that you can easily jiggle the bolt in the hole. I did not try to pull it out, but to me it looks like the bolt has been pulled a little out of the rock. A fall before clipping the 4th bolt will be a groundfall. The 4th bolt look good. It is only about 5 or 6 ft higher and easy to clip.

    Other than that, enjoy the route ;-)
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Feb 17, 2017

    The third bolt is still as bad as ever.
    By Joe Castellano
    From: Boulder
    Jul 15, 2017

    Good call Julian on the 3rd bolt. It might hold, but it is better not to fall on it.

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