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Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) 

WI2 M1

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 300'
Original: WI2 M1 [details]
FA: Lance Paradis, Gilman Coryell (Winter 2007?)
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Gilman Coryell on Nov 4, 2014

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Paradis Gully from the Weld to Byron Rd. Taken 2/2...

Description 

A moderate gully route with some steeper ice/mixed at the start and a longer moderate ice/snow second pitch. Located in a narrow hidden gully which splits the rock of the right hand side of the chimney gully, this route is tucked away behind the AMC route headwall.

P1: A thin WI 2+/M1 section gains access to the gully. Above the seep entrance run it up into the gully proper on moderate ice and snow to an alcove on the left. Belay on rock gear from alcove.

P2: Moderate snow and or ice to termination of gully at rock headwall. Belay on rock gear around right at base of rock.
Descent: Scramble up and walk off via chimney trail with one rappel into chimney gully or rappel the route.

Location 

Located in a narrow hidden gully which splits the rock of the right hand side of the chimney gully, this route is tucked away behind the AMC route headwall.

Protection 

A Selection of short screws and rock gear. Tri-cams were helpful.


Photos of Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from half way up the 2nd pitch. Taken 2/21/20...
View from half way up the 2nd pitch. Taken 2/21/20...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the 2nd pitch. Taken 2/21/2016
Beginning of the 2nd pitch. Taken 2/21/2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning of the first pitch. Taken 2/21/2016
Beginning of the first pitch. Taken 2/21/2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Paradis Gully, Pitch One
BETA PHOTO: Paradis Gully, Pitch One
Rock Climbing Photo: Paradis Gully
BETA PHOTO: Paradis Gully

Comments on Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) Add Comment
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By Gilman Coryell
From: Mount Vernon, Maine
Nov 7, 2014

Really a great little gully. I’d been in that area on Tumbledown many times but never noticed it. Not sure who spied it first but Lance and I spotted it while climbing a rock route in late fall on the other side of the chimney trail. Since there was no snow yet, that ribbon of ice stuck out like a sore thumb. Lance snapped the photos from the rock route (for some reason we actually had a camera with us) and we returned a couple of weeks later with ice gear and climbed it. A real adventure and one of my fondest memories of Lance. I’m not actually sure what year it was.
By Adam Moser
From: Portland, Maine
Feb 23, 2016

Be aware that the Weld to Byron Road is not maintained for winter travel. The road is well traveled by snowmobiles but impassible by car in the winter. We approached the trail head from the Byron side, we skied in the first time and more recently used fat bikes to make the short approach. Drive in along the road until it is no longer maintained, we parked off the side of the road in a turn around at the bottom of one of the hills. Our approach was about 4 miles from the car to the trail head.
By Ben Townsend
Mar 5, 2016

Neat route in a five-star location. Light rock rack to 1.5" is helpful. In this low-snow winter, we were able to drive to the trailhead in a Subaru Outback, but I am definitely not recommending that -- clearly the crux of the day!

We did a 200+' first pitch to a stance with a good rock anchor, then a short scratchy but easy pitch to the top. Rapping down the Chimney off the old rungs puts you very close to the start.

For those who have been up the approach in the summer: when covered with verglas and crusty snow, it's exactly as much fun as you imagine it being.

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