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Burschlwand
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Pappilion S 

Pappilion 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 525', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1996
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 16, 2013

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The start of Papilion.

Description 

Starts up Oberländer HG Tour for the first two pitches then branches off to go straight up the face. The climb is well protected and has new stainless steel bolts or glue-ins with each belay stance protected with a modern multi-pitch three-bolt anchor with chain.
1st pitch: 5.10a, 65 ft. Follow the bolts up the well featured, slabby rock. The route heads a bit left in the middle, then continues up to the anchor.
2nd pitch: 5.8, 100 ft. Continue straight up from here past a small tree to reach the anchor. There are three anchors on the ledge of the 2nd pitch. Use the middle one, which is very close to the one on the left.
3rd pitch: 5.10b, 100 ft. From the anchor, head straight up and then begin trending slightly right. Just follow the bolts, but don't head to hard right to the neighboring route "Peacemaker".
4th pitch: 5.6, 60 ft. The shortest and easiest pitch, yet the most challenging route finding. It's possible, but not very recommended that you link pitches 3 and 4, as this pitch heads up and far left. Continue following the bolts, but don't get lured straight up to the old anchor on a nice ledge. Continue up the slabby pillar on your left, following the same glue-in bolts to a nice new anchor.
Pitch 5: 5.10a, 130 ft. Continue straight up, following the right-most bolt line on the face. This leads to a cool crux near the end of the pitch.
Pitch 6: 5.10a, 65 ft. Exit to the top, following the bolts.

Protection 

About 15 draws and some lockers for the anchors.


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