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Paper Wafer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Tom Bowker
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 852
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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wow... yuck... i removed this but didn't have any ...


I like to say something nice about every route i climb, and i always can... A nice thing to say about this climb would be something like "Has great potential" or "protects well... until the lichen covered 20 foot run out to the top"... I like adventure so i am glad i climbed it but unless you dont mind bad quality dirty rock with some run out you might climb something else...

Climb the really sweet looking corner avoiding the fragile pieces inside the crack... Jam and layback past a cruxy mini roof to a nice stance... Pick your way through the sea of lichen on a low angle face to an anchor on a ledge by a birch tree... When i did it the anchor was nasty so i rapped off the tree...

It really has some nice climbing and maybe just needs some cleaning...


in the middle of the cliff look for a nice looking left facing corner...


Finger to hand sized cams and a few nuts to a new (c2014) two SS glue-in bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Paper Wafer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan at the start of the crack.  Sustained 5.9 ri...
Bryan at the start of the crack. Sustained 5.9 ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: a nice looking corner...
BETA PHOTO: a nice looking corner...

Comments on Paper Wafer Add Comment
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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 26, 2008

The runout to the anchor is sketchy for sure. I know Chris Smith heard me swearing up a storm last time I did it. If you bring a nut pick (you might as well seeing you were foolish enough to bring a rack to Rumney) you can dig up a few gear placements. When Brad and I did this there was no anchor, only interesting climbing to the top!
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Bombs or paper wafers away. I led it first with Tom bowker and the corner crack was stuffed with paper thin flakes removed during the accent."

Comment by bradley white on July 13th, 2008 4:15 am
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 28, 2014

The anchor has been replaced with a new two SS glue-in one with rings. (Thanks RCA donations) It was moved down from the ledge, below the big block, so one's rope would run better. The old anchor is still up on the ledge, but is just bare hangers. The route still presently needs quite a bit more cleaning, but should be good when finished. You definitely wouldn't want to fall on the upper bit, but if clean, the holds are positive and fun. Tom/Bradley, if you want a bolt in the top, I can place it for you while I am working on the area, but I don't think it is really necessary. Let me know. From a TR while cleaning it, it seemed like a nice burly "traditional" 5.9+
By ward smith
May 20, 2014

I think that the original route moved left after the clean corner, at least that was the way I did it when I lead it. After the good corner, it was crap lichen climbing to the ledge. Not particularly death defying, although some kind of shrubbery was employed for protection.
By bradley white
From: Bend
Dec 2, 2014

If someone is up for it? Retro bolt its entirety. After corner went up line of least resistance.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jul 21, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This protects really well, and the run-out lichen crawl to the top is definitely part of the fun! I don't see this needing any bolts, but it is Rumney.
By Ming
Apr 15, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think this route only need a scrub. No need for a bolt. If you can do the crack you can do the easy runout slab. It's a very nice trad climb for those who brings gear.

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