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Paparazzi  

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: ferrells on Mar 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Basically one hard move, but it's a really fun move. Start with triangular block for the left and crimp for the right. Use anything you want for feet, work up into the gaston, and shoot up to the sloper. One or two more slaps stabilizes, and you can stand up. Not as cool as others at a similar difficulty at Rocktown, but I'm not sure I've ever enjoyed a thrutchy one-move-wonder as much as I enjoyed this climb.

There's also a v9 sit, but unfortunately it is contrived. For that, you start on the two crimps low (the left one you can use as a kind of hook/jam thing for two fingers), and power up to the crimps and slopers in the pod at chest height. Don't use the hand swallowing jugs on the left (slightly off line, yes, but I'm still a little bitter that this was supposed to be ultra classic and it's an eliminate). From there, finish with the stand start.

Location 

Right of Asphalt, start on the holds as described above.

Protection 

1 pad, nice to have a spot if you're getting a little wild, but you probably won't need it.


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