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The final roof is at the top of this photo.
This is a nice route up the middle of the second buttress of Mt Thoridin paralleling Mr. Misty (to the R). Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag.
P1. Wander up overlapping plates of granite up and into a small corner/crack. Place pro high & R. Traverse L across a small slab 5.9. Move up and L to a tree belay.
P2. Angle out left with a L-leaning crack with a capping flake of granite. Fire around the flake and lieback up to a comfortable stance. Plan your moves carefully past the 2 bolts on the face. There will be protection not too far above the 2nd bolt. The holds will appear just as you need them. Continue up easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor.
P3. Move L to a small corner and continue up using some holds out L on the arete. Pass a small roof and continue up easy ground to the top past a 2 bolt anchor.
Walk off L (recommended) or rap 180 feet and 165 feet from a tree to the bottom OR 80 feet, 100 feet, 165 feet from the tree.
Standard rack, 60m rope nice, doubles to rappel.
Allen Light on the shared start area with Mr Misty
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2007
The Lyons Area guidebook calls the short dihedral pitch at the top 5.9, but I'd say it's a one move thing. The dihedral itself provides ample ledges, gear, and handholds to keep it well under that until you get to the roof. Place a red Camalot way right in a crack at the roof and climb up to the left using the arete of the dihedral as your foothold. Grab tiny crystals and flat spots to get over the roof and you're done.
We rapped the route with a 60m rope. Tie knots in the ends as the rap to the last double cold shut anchor was about too long. The final rap from there requires downclimbing about 20ft. of very low angle slab, so be aware.