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Papageno S 

Papageno 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 517
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Papageno on le Miroir d'Argentine (Note:...

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.8)
Pitch 2 (5.10a)
Pitch 3 (5.6)
Pitch 4 (5.7)
Pitch 5 (5.7)
Pitch 6 (5.7)
Pitch 7 (5.7)
Pitch 8 (5.5)
Pitch 9 (5.7)
Pitch 10 (5.4)
Pitch 11 (5.5)
Pitch 12 (5.7)
Pitch 13 (5.5)
Pitch 14 (5.7)
Pitch 15 (5.3)

Most of the difficulties are found on the first two pitches. It is possible (and rather easy), however, to find yourself on the 5.10a/b variation that goes straight up from the large diagonal ledge. In the upper parts, route-finding can be an issue due to the sparce bolts.

Bringing a set of nuts can help protect the route better, but sometimes good placements are hard to come by. Expect to deal with some runouts!

Location 

From the parking lot in Solalex, follow the path across a "bridge" over the river. Continue the path up across a flat field before continuing into the forest and beginning a short approach to the base of the cliff. Papagueno is found to the right of the very popular route, "Remix".

Approach Time: ~1hr 15min

Protection 

Bolts (85 bolts over 15 pitches). There are some extended runnouts but additional gear is difficult to place. The bolts are the crappy thin folded sheet metal type.

Descent 

From the top of the route, traverse left (East) along the ridge of the mountain. Go behind Haute Corde and you will come to a hiking path which leads around to the Col de la Poreyrette and subsequently down to the valley and back to the field you crossed through to get to the start of the climb in the first place.

Note: the return hike starts out fairly exposed and a slip could be fatal at many points along it. Be attentive and know your limits! If snow is present, the return could be much less safe.


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