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Lost Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptist on the Rampage S,TR 
Blades of Steel S 
Come and Get Your Love S 
Crack a Lo Lo T,S 
Drop Dead T 
Dutchmen, The T,S 
Fear of the Right T,S 
For A Rocker T 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 
Hand Crack T 
Jack's Slap S 
Last Rites T 
Lost My Religion T,S 
Made in the Shade S 
OU Mountaineers T 
Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 
Rap Bolters from Hell S 
Slime of the Century S 
Steep Show T 
Thankful Arete T 
Tied to the Whipping Post S 
UnNamed T 
Unsorted Routes:

Papa Was a Rolling Stone 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tony Mayse
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Drew Nevius on Dec 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Elisha Gallegos leading. Photo by Mark Scott

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start up the first 4 bolts of Come And Get Your Love (and past its crux), but instead of climbing past the last bolt (which could be clipped with a long runner) to the bolted anchor, traverse the 5.9 crack (#0.75 - #3 Camalots) left for about 30-40 feet then finish straight up when the crack ends. Gear anchor can be built using small cams (alien sizes). Hike off, or possibly walk around the boulder and rappel Come And Get Your Love

    Location 

    Left most wall at the south end of Lost Dome

    Protection 

    4-5 quickdraws for bolts, #0.75 - #3 sized gear for the traverse, and small gear for the anchor (alien sized cams)


    Comments on Papa Was a Rolling Stone Add Comment
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    By Preston Pettigrew
    From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    Feb 1, 2017

    Go left before the last bolt (which could be clipped with a long runner). Crack takes .75-3 and the gear anchor takes aliens. You have to pass the crux of Come and Get Your Love, so although the crack is 5.9, the whole route may be considered 5.10-?
    By Drew Nevius
    From: Oklahoma
    Feb 7, 2017

    Great - thanks for the beta Preston! I've updated the route info accordingly

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