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Piz Ciavazes
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"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Buhl Direct T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 
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Papa Giovanni Paolo II 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Renato Bernard, G Bonanno, L Trippa, C Peveri, E Bernard
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 30, 2014

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Right side - ramp area of Piz Ciavezes with Papa G...

Description 

This is a pretty easy completely bolted line a few minutes from the road – it can be climbed in a couple of hours and rappelled with a single 70 meter rope. It faces south so dries quickly. It is a nice choice for a warm up or a climb to squeeze into a narrow time window. There are no particularly memorable bits of climbing so it will never be a true classic even though it gets pretty busy.
Pitch 1: Climb up the ramp slightly moving right along the well bolted line. 5.7 30 meters
Pitch 2: Straight up the bolts on easy terrain. 5.7 20 meters
Pitch 3: Straight up to a ledge. 5.8 25 meters.
Pitch 4: UP the bolt line slightly right then along a fissure to a ledge. 5.10a/b 35 meters
Pitch 5: Up and right to a blank section – traverse this on thin holds to the right then up to the belay. 5.10+/11a 30 meters.
Pitch 6: Straight up along some bolts, thin moves over small roofs then up to belay. 5.10 30 meters.
From here it is likely best to rappel. The route does continue over mostly easy terrain for 3-4 more pitches with one hard move 2 pitches up. If you climb these you will need to traverse off along the large ledge – walking left to the 2nd Sella tower then down and hiking back.

Location 

Park in the large dirt lot on the long straight stretch of road just below the base of Piz Ciavazes. This lot is immediately after a hairpin curve coming uphill. Walk across the road head up and right to the base of the mountain heading towards the Abram Arete. The route starts up an obvious ramp/corner just to the right of a yellow wall that contains very blank appearing sport route(s). The start is in an obvious ramp/corner with many bolts.
Descent: Rappel with a single 70 meter rope from the top of the 6th pitch. Walk off from the top of the 10th pitch.

Protection 

13 quick draws, 70 meter rope


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