Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) Rock Climbing
Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de...
Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.
NOTE: many people think that there is a class 4 scramble up the back of the Pao de Acucar. There is not. The route, called Costao, is a technical climb. There is a 100 foot face that is 5.7 and exposed. People get hurt (and killed) here, so dont go into it underprepared.
There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.
The guidebook is EXCELLENT and can get you anywhere you need to go.
Urca by Flavio Daflon and Delson de Queiroz can be found in various climbing shops around Rio, including one near the entrance to park.
From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down one of the access trails to get back to the parking lot, unless it is after 7pm.
Weather station 2.6 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Coringa 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, 3 pitches, 330'
Chamine Stop 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
R Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750'
Costao 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 1000'
Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Cavalo Louco 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b South America
: ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.At the top of pitch 5 on big le...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Pao de Acucar