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Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alfredo Marciel S 
As de Espadas S 
Cavalo Louco T 
Chamine Stop T,S 
Coringa S 
Costao S 
Lagartao T,S 
Revolta dos Gravatás T 
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 
Via do Totem T,S 
Via dos Italianos S 
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 6,892
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de...

Description 

Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

NOTE: many people think that there is a class 4 scramble up the back of the Pao de Acucar. There is not. The route, called Costao, is a technical climb. There is a 100 foot face that is 5.7 and exposed. People get hurt (and killed) here, so don’t go into it underprepared.

Getting There 

There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.

The guidebook is EXCELLENT and can get you anywhere you need to go.
Urca by Flavio Daflon and Delson de Queiroz can be found in various climbing shops around Rio, including one near the entrance to park.
From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down one of the access trails to get back to the parking lot, unless it is after 7pm.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',6],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Coringa   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   
Chamine Stop   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750'   
Costao   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 1000'   
Via dos Italianos   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   
Secundo Costa Neto   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of pitch 5.

Via do Totem 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This route is actually a combination of several routes on the Totem formation that were established over the course of several years. Sika em Frente to Limiar das Lacas to As Lacas Tambem Amam to Revolta das Gravatas to Lagartao.It is absolutely spectacular. There are splitter cracks and technical face moves up a beautiful wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or ...
Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the Urca and Pao de Acucar as seen from ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of the Urca and Pao de Acucar as seen from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo ...
Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão d...
Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. M...
Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau.  We ...
Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau. We ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1...
Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: West face of the Pao de Acucar
BETA PHOTO: West face of the Pao de Acucar

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