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Panty Wall
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Panty Raid 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblum 1987
Page Views: 10,481
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Aug 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (178)
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Joe climbs Panty Raid

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This single pitch trad line on the Panty Wall is to the left of the popular sport routes on the main face. The climb begins on the left side of the face, near where the pine tree used to be. It heads straight up the face to a small ceiling produced by the transition to the black varnished plates. Climb the left margin of an orange section to a thin right leaning crack to a two-bolt anchor on top.


Standard rack

Photos of Panty Raid Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shayne Durfee on a panty raid, Photo by Adam Clark
Shayne Durfee on a panty raid, Photo by Adam Clark
Rock Climbing Photo: Absolutely incredible sunset. Top-roping
Absolutely incredible sunset. Top-roping
Rock Climbing Photo: panty raiding
panty raiding
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the route
looking down the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Photograph by Mason Miller
Photograph by Mason Miller
Rock Climbing Photo: Our friend George.
Our friend George.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun route
Fun route
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising on a nice sunny day
Cruising on a nice sunny day
Rock Climbing Photo: taking on gear at the crux of Panty Raid
taking on gear at the crux of Panty Raid
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris H on Panty Raid
Chris H on Panty Raid
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris H using the hands free head jamb Panty Raid,...
Chris H using the hands free head jamb Panty Raid,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Batliner leading. (c) Scott Nomi.
Fred Batliner leading. (c) Scott Nomi.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lock and pull on panty raid
Lock and pull on panty raid
Rock Climbing Photo: another view of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: another view of the climb.

Comments on Panty Raid Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this is 5.10 in Swain, but it's really not. .9+ is a more accurate rating- really good.

just bring a set of stoppers and sew it up, no cams needed.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006

Agreed. Nuts only!!
By cassondra long
Apr 30, 2009

Makes a great TR solo. The rock is beautifully varnished. The route is very steep at the top.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Route is overhanging at the top - great moves on the upper varnished section.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Apr 18, 2011

Led this yesterday, I agree nuts only. The crux felt significantly harder than 5.9 to me, more like 10a/b. The rest of the route was definitely 5.9 though and protects well with wires everywhere. I couple people I was with top roped it afterwards and it seemed significantly easier for the shorter climber in our party.
By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10a in my book! Ridiculously awesome, good stances to fish in nuts and oogle the sport climbers on the Panty Wall. Lots of nuts. I placed a .3 and .5 camalot pretty much for kicks and they were not ideal placements. Nuts. Nuts. Nuts.

Mantling off of the varnish onto the soft slab above seemed to be the hardest move! Brah!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Best route on the wall by far. Great pro, cool moves, if you miss the key toe hold it is 10a lockoff near the top, otherwise probably a little easier.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 26, 2013

This route really does take nuts well, but one thing to keep in mind before you set and jet is that if you have any doubts at all that you may fall at the crux, you should have at least one cam or oppositional nut in. My partner (who was quite competent and no rookie) zippered several pieces--up to his single cam placement--during a fall at the crux. I think the position of the belayer in relation to the wall doesn't help.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Apr 12, 2013

An excellent climb with mostly passive pro and a clear and defined crux at the top. Just a couple notes:

I climbed this at the end of march this year and there was what appeared to be a fixed nut right at the crux. Getting to clip this took a lot of spice away from an excellent and aesthetic route. Hopefully someone takes the time to remove this piece so the route is clean again. I was with a big party on a busy Saturday, so I didn't even try to remove it, but it looked pretty buried. Not a local, so I have no idea how long it has been there.

The party before us was doing TR laps on it, and they did not extend the anchors over the edge. The rope drag looked horrendous, the lady was literally putting all of her body weight on the rope to pull in slack. Beyond drag, ropes over edges = bad. The anchors are pretty far back there, I brought a 30ft cord and still had to extend the power point with runners to get a good TR situation.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?

All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

+1 for small cams down low. This line was a chill TR but strenuous lead. The gear is great (yes, lots of nuts), but fiddling nuts into the wavy cracks behind the patina varnish is consuming. I whipped three times at the crux onto my last nut and think I could easily have zippered several pieces lower down if not for the two tiny cams I had as my first two pieces. The belay stance is back quite a bit from the 5.7ish first half of the route. Great falls. Great lead.

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