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Panther Gorge Ice Climbing

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Panther Gorge Ice Climbing Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 44.11228, -73.91075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 987
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mdobbs on Feb 29, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Photo from the cliffs on Mt. Haystack-the Agharta ...

Description 

One of the most remote areas to climb ice in the high peaks - this area received very little attention until 2015. Some of the longest sustained routes in the area live here - for those who enjoy "adventure climbing", this is a destination.

Conditions can vary a lot - so ask around and please post comments and conditions photos here so that others can be forewarned.

Many of the areas (Agharta, Feline walls) build ice quickly in early months (Nov/Dec) of winter, then can back off when the days get longer in Feb March. The gully lines should last longer.

Getting There 

Park at the Garden near Keene Valley (get there early - the parking lot fills up, even in winter. The shuttle does not run in the winter. The next-nearest parking is a long ways away).

Follow the Phelps trail past John's Brook lodge (1.5 hours) and continue up hill to Slant rock (3.5 hours from the garden - a pleasant hike). There's a lean-to here that offers the last legal camping spot before the Gorge (camping above 3500' outside of designated areas is not allowed in the high peaks). Bivy gear can be dumped here. The lean-to has a great view and gets southern sun most of the day.

Follow the trail an additional 45 minutes to the Marcy-Haystack col. Continue up the Marcy trail about 200 feet, then break off the trail ( GPS: 44.116116 north, -73.905566 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587574 4885351 ) South bushwacking into Panther Gorge. It's easiest to contour down and south to the drainage, then contour up hill (west) to the Panther Den rock that becomes visible on the right hand side (20 minutes of solid bushwacking from the col).

The cliffs can be followed (going into the bush occasionally) south from Panther Den past Feline wall and eventually reaching Agharta wall (another 20 minutes from Panther den).

See the description of the gorge, and great overview photos by Kevin MacKenzie in the rock climbing section of Mountain Project: mountainproject.com/v/panther-... Adironacks .

Most parties choose to use snowshoes and/or microspikes for the approach. The narrow/steep/wooded trail and bushwack means that using skis for the approach would add to the overall adventure/excitement of climbing in the gorge. Parties climbing multiple days in the gorge may want to cache their ropes and hardware in the Gorge for a light and easy hike back to the lean-to.

Climbing Season

For the Adirondack Ice Climbing area.

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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There are two variations, left and right of the buttress shown in the photo. I believe the RHS is the original route, and more reliable. We climbed the LHS in 2016, though the description below is sufficient for either side.P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice. This section can be bypassed on the right if the ice is too thin or non-existent.P2 55m NEI 3 Climb rambling steps of ice to mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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Comments on Panther Gorge Ice Climbing Add Comment
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By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Mar 6, 2016
"One of the most remote"? I'd say safely it is the most remote. It is truly a beautiful place, in my opinion it is beyond worth the logistics of its approach.