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Motherlode Rock - West Face
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Panning for Gold 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, 1990, FL: Chris Miller, Sean Godwin & Nathan Fitzhugh, May 2002
Page Views: 1,144
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006

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Joel on Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley P...

Description 

Tricky moves up slanting edges gain a stance below a bulging face with a 3" vertical dike system running up it. Power out the bulge and continue up the staircased dike to anchors on a ledge.

Althought on the short side, this fun route features a variety of moves on mostly quality rock with a memorable finish up the dike.

Location 

Furthest right bolted route on the wall and just right of Whiskeroo.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Panning for Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan rappelling and cleaning up after a successful ...
Dan rappelling and cleaning up after a successful ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Comments on Panning for Gold Add Comment
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By MAR
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is the scariest 5.10b lead I have done at Holcomb, and the moves over the bulge (from 1st-2nd clip) would make me rate it a 5.10c. The exposure (and potential ledge fall) from the third clip is heady. Be careful. A spotter for the first clip is a must. That said, the movement on this route is excellent and varied. Enjoy...and if you choose to top rope instead of lead, set a directional off the fourth bolt to minimize your swing.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Aug 22, 2010

Fun climb with a variety of power moves, high steps, and tricky body position through the slanted chimney/roof.

Clipped the 3rd bolt on the roof but swung out to the right to climb over the bulge and to the top.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Opening moves are nice, strenuous, yet technical too, with a surprise element of balance.
By Erin Selvaggio
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Jun 10, 2013

REALLY FUN ROUTE... opening moves to the first bolt are bouldery but FUN! To me the crux is getting over your first bolt. A little balancy and committing (especially for a 10b) but the FUN the rest of the way!
By Sean Haynes
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux of this climb is definitely getting passed the 1st bolt. Get your hands wide so you can bring you feet up the center and take off. Once you reach the 3rd bolt, its a cake walk. Great route that deserves more attention.

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