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Cathedral Peak
Routes Sorted
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John Muir Route (The Mountaineer's Route) T 
Panic Pillar T 
Southeast Buttress T 

Panic Pillar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Tom Higgins Bud Couch
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,957
Submitted By: vincent L. on Jun 23, 2013

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Dean Potter highline . Photo by Mikey Schaefer .

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Panic Pillar is the closest pillar to the summit of Cathedral. The route described here is on the west face of the pillar. Start by climbing a steep handcrack until you gain a small stance on the pillar itself. Clip a mangled rusty piton , you can also fiddle a small cam or nut in to backup the pin. This is the last pro on the route.

Make some exposed face moves to gain another small ledge . From here you are fully committed on the pillar. You must make two distinct 5.9 moves on mostly positive knobs to reach the summit jugs on top.

There is (1) old quarter inch bolt on top with a newer looking quick link through it. You can bring up a second from the top. To descend, run the rope through the quick link , and then run the rope around a solid horn on top. You can safely rap from the bolt and horn.

Panic Pillar is an excellent adventure after a Cathedral summit or on your way to Eichorn. It is a pretty serious lead, and the fall potential near the top should not be underestimated.

Protection 

Old piton halfway up, old bolt on top


Photos of Panic Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower handcrack and stance where you clip the ...
The lower handcrack and stance where you clip the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vincent and Paul on Panic Pillar.
Vincent and Paul on Panic Pillar.
Rock Climbing Photo: Vincent and Paul on Panic Pillar, 6/22/13
Vincent and Paul on Panic Pillar, 6/22/13

Comments on Panic Pillar Add Comment
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By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Jul 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Awesome route! Just as an update, there is no quicklink on the old bolt anymore, and the piton is bashed in so that you can't clip it. Bring a 0 TCU (.2 BD) and a small nut, the gear seems bomber. You can also try to sling a horn on the ledge above the piton, but I don't know how well that would actually work in holding a fall.
This route is not sandbagged at all, and feels pretty comfy as far as 5.9R goes.

Get at it!