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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kimber Almond and Tony Calvert July 1995
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 1,582
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    3 cruxes. Start in the easy, low angle crack, moving up the the initial vertical headwall for an awkward boulder problem with about 10 different variations on holds that never seem all that great (or are really huge, depending on what you found) At the top of the dihedral, move right to a great rest and get psyched for the next crux. The steep face above is why you came and sports long moves on enormous holds, with a full bag of sport climbing tricks that I didn't expect to use. The more creative you are, the easier it gets and powering through is far less fun. Crux 3 starts with the fist crack over left in a dihedral, clipping the final two bolts and pulling the lip to the chains.


    Just right of Medussa. Its initially hard to see the bolts on the headwall, but its all in there. Look to the white roof for the middle crux. Easy to scope this out and even get to the anchors from Medussa.


    Probably 3 pieces are fine and only to protect the easy but runnout moves before each crux. I liked .4 or a .5, 1 and 3 camalots but you might want something slightly different. Loads of very long draws and runners - enough to cover the 10 bolts whatever gear you choose and the chains. It helps to have 2 or 3 super long runners to straighten the rope out.

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    By tenesmus
    Jul 20, 2010

    Its easy to work this after you warm up on Medussa. I like how each crux is different, making it feel like 3 different climbs. Sort of the Teeanova of Hellgate but with more memorable cruxes, position and (obviously) variable rock.
    By bheller
    From: SL UT
    Jul 21, 2010
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    This really is a "whole package" route. Diverse climbing, some tricky cruxes, big exposure, strange rock... if it wasn't plauged by choss and didn't offer a big shelf rest after the first crux, I'd offer another star. I think Tenesmus meant 35 meters- I remember a 70 being just right for being lowered off.
    By tenesmus
    Jul 21, 2010

    Maybe it hadn't been climbed for a while before you got on, or maybe you cleaned it really well? All the rock at Hellgate is suspect, but those marbelly jugs were generally solid with a few needing a brushing. The rock at the very top seemed to be the most friable but the rest didn't seem to shed as badly. I doubt this has ever been a high traffic route, but its cooler than Medussa by a long ways and should get done more.

    Did I mention its easy to TR and work out?
    By K Blase
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 9, 2017

    I was up there a few days ago, and there was a huge bird's nest right about where the guy in the photo is on this route (directly right of the start of the flake on Medusa). The bird was actually lying dead at the base of the route, but there is a ton of bird shit near the top of this route. Looks like you could probably avoid most of it, but it might be there a while since its sheltered.
    By JBONE
    Aug 3, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    So good. Shade till 2pm in the hot summer.

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