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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 340'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Denis Luther & James Debella 2007
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 29, 2010

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pandemonium offers a broad range of climbing styles in three distinct pitches with a noteworthy last pitch. You can approach Pitch 2 by various routes (Puppies on Edge, Hang 'Em High, Group Therapy, or Discord). As well, you could also take P2 of Discord to the ramp system of The Snake and meet up with the third pitch.

    Pitch 1 (5.9): Start 20' right of Group Therapy, next to the large boulder. Work up a bulge to the wide crack. Up the crack then the slab above to easier terrain to the headwall and the bolted anchor.
    Pitch 2 (5.8 PG): Step right from the fixed anchor to the zig-zag finger crack that opens up to an off-width. Climb the crack/off-width up to a vegetated section of the cliff and climb a short right-facing corner until you reach a short headwall with a mass of vegetation on your left. Step 10' left through the vegetation and climb up sparsely protected face climbing following the weakness up to the low-angle ramp of The Snake. Move left to the large pine tree with a fixed anchor.
    Pitch 3 (5.10b): Move right ~15 feet to the groove with a low bolt. Work up the groove passing two bolts to a stance below the overhanging corner (potential 3-4" piece). Climb the overhanging corner (potentially wet) past a bolt (also small TCU placement) and then gain the ledge below the arete. Work left to a stance and a bolt. Work up the face (crux) to three more bolts, past two horizontals. At the last bolt (second horizontal) step right and climb the arete to the slab, and then to the top.


    Start: 20' right of Group Therapy
    Descent: Rappel with two ropes from the fixed anchor at the top of the third pitch, trending right to the fixed anchor (P2 of Discord - ~130'). From here make a ~180' rappel to the ground.
    Alternative Descent: Walk climber's left and descend via the descent gully.


    Standard rack to 4".
    Pitch 1: Two bolt anchor
    Pitch 2: Fixed anchor on tree
    Pitch 3: 7 bolts, fixed anchor on tree

    Comments on Pandemonium Add Comment
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    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Aug 29, 2010

    Pitch 3 will take an optional 3-4" piece and small C3 size pieces. I'm not sure if this pitch is supposed to be lead entirely on draws or not. The stemming corner was a little wet when I did it, the above pieces helped calm my mental anxiety.
    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 10, 2015
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    P3 has some very good, steep climbing in a spectacular position. I'd call it a worthy 3-star pitch if it were right off the ground. Now about the rest of the route...

    There are numerous options for P1, including the one listed in the book and Group Therapy, all ending at the Group Therapy anchor, and all perfectly fine as approaches to the climbing above.

    P2 is junk, though with some aggressive cleaning of the crack could actually be OK. This would require the removal of copious amounts of vegetation, and excavating numerous loose, jammed flakes from the back of the crack. All this work would yield maybe a 1-star pitch though so it's probably best to just suck it up and climb the junk-show to reach the top pitch. It's well worth the effort.

    FWIW, P1&2 can easily be combined with a 70m rope. Either way, I recommend clipping the first bolt of P3 before stepping left to the pine tree anchor and bringing up your second. There's actually a slippery move or two on P2, and the bolt provides a welcome directional.
    By Jim Lawyer
    Aug 10, 2015

    ...or just solo The Snake and avoid all the hassles. P3 is a must-do.
    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 12, 2015
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Yup. That's what I'll do next time for sure, Jim. Just thought I'd give the full scoop on the rest of the route for those like me who prefer to do the complete route at least once. And agreed about P3. It's a good one.

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