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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross and Ralph Ferrara
Season: Winter, late fall and ear
Page Views: 2,135
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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First pitch of "Pandemic"

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This four pitch route is on the left end of the ice cream parlor.
P1 climb a thin crack 5.10 to a series of bolt protected face moves. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge
P2 Follow a 5.9 crack then traverse right on face moves to a ledge in the corner. Use hand size gear for the belay.
P3 Crux. Climb the slot corner to an odd stemming move. Clip a bolt at the crux, but take a few small nuts for pro too. Pass a rap anchor and continue up and left on a thin flake with bolts for gear. Belay at the double bolted ledge. A 60 meter rap on two ropes will get you back to earth from here.
P4 Climb the obvious OW crack, at 5.10, up from the belay to a fixed anchor. From here it is 50 meters down to the anchor midway up P3. From their a double rope rap will get you down.


This is at the far left end of the ice cream parlor. Its labeled as route 1 in the photo.


Standard desert rack with doubles on most cams plus some smaller nuts and a few quickdraws.

Photos of Pandemic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pandemic, Kura Buran, and Rattler. An alternative ...
Pandemic, Kura Buran, and Rattler. An alternative ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pandemic Topo and Epedemic Var.
Pandemic Topo and Epedemic Var.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadie belaying the 2nd pitch 5.9 traverse
Roadie belaying the 2nd pitch 5.9 traverse

Comments on Pandemic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lynn S
May 14, 2008

I think the crux is the bulging hand crack on the last pitch, more like 5.11 to me. The moves on the previous pitch seemed much easier than pulling through the bulge. Fun route that gets you to the rim. You can link pitch 1 and 2.
By Eric Odenthal
Dec 9, 2009

started this route late in the day. Pitch 1 and 2 make you think... the traverse to the belay for the second on pitch 2 is sketch. I headed up the blank corner to the first set of anchors. Great stemming moves. we bailed with 2 60m ropes from there. need to finish this one.
By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A single set of BD cams from 00 C3 to a number five would do the job, no nuts needed. If anything a extra four for the last pitch is all you would need and the number five is for the last pitch only.
By swadeky
From: Moab, UT
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, varied and interesting climbing, poor rock quality keeps it from being even 3 stars for me. Keep your head on a swivel and dont crank on anything too hard because itll break. If you dont like runouts a #6 might work for the last pitch (not sure), its not too hard though, just scary cuz of rock quality. I placed a #5 but didnt really need it, but placed 2 #4s. With a double rack and enough runners I reckon you could do the whole thing in 2 pitches.
By Joshua Griffin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2016

I found it more enjoyable to climb the flake after the traverse on the second pitch rather than climbing the corner. Of course this isn't the original climb. Be careful of loose rock atop the flake if you go that way.

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