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Pancho Villa Rides Again 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Wright
Page Views: 9,211
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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Rapping from the top.


Awesome bolted crack climbing.

P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)

P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)

P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)

P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.

P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.

Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.


This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.


Standard Potrero rack, book recommends 14 draws.

Photos of Pancho Villa Rides Again Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 belay
P1 belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike and I hanging out at the top enjoing the view...
Mike and I hanging out at the top enjoing the view...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bat on P.3 hanging out.
Bat on P.3 hanging out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming up high on Pancho Villa, Conservatilly...
Stemming up high on Pancho Villa, Conservatilly...
Rock Climbing Photo: There is a lot of fun Limestine crack on this clim...
There is a lot of fun Limestine crack on this clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Found the route :)
Found the route :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Stef on the finger crack of P1
Stef on the finger crack of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pancho follows the line using the crack to the lef...
Pancho follows the line using the crack to the lef...

Comments on Pancho Villa Rides Again Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A 70m rope on this route and most other newer routes at the Potrero, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre, is highly recommended, if not required, for safe rappelling. We climbed this route on double 60s and had to rap on them because rapping a single 60m rope came up short on a couple pitches. Thankfully, you one can always clip into a protection bolt and rap off a leaver-biner if the rope comes up short but it's scary getting that close to the end of the rope and is somewhat disappointing to leave a biner. Rapping on double ropes works but there so much vegetation next to the routes that having tons of rope to pull can be a pain.
By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 5, 2008

The fifth pitch has two options: the right one as described above and the left one, which we thought it was about 11b. Both are long but have intermediate anchors to rappel with a single rope.
By Misha Tselman
From: New York, NY
Apr 25, 2010

According to Magic Ed, the fifth pitch variation is an 5.11c (goes left, while the 5.10a goes right)
This last pitch is long and even with a 70 meter rope you either need to downclimb a bit after rappel or use intermediate anchors.
By Christine Page
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2010

The person who leads the odd numbered pitches gets the more comfortable belay stances.
By Tom Atkins
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Aug 29, 2016

Has this route been led on gear?
From: Potrero Chico, MEX
Aug 31, 2016

The first pitch was originally led on gear. I doubt anyone's ever done the whole thing on gear.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jan 19, 2017

Excellent climb (last pitch was ok) with great variety. Rapped straight down from the chimney pitch, plenty of stations to choose from if parties are coming up the same route.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Something P Chico routinely lacks is sustained climbing. Not this route. Very sustained, easily linkable and just all round great movement although the last pitch doesn't really look worth doing. We skipped the last pitch.
Felt like: P1-.10c P2-.10c P3-.10b P4-5.9

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