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All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas
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Chimney, The T 
Cilley-Barber T 
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Pamola's Fury Left 
Waterfall Gully T 

Pamola's Fury Left 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 500'
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: B Proudman, M Cohen, D George, Jan 1974
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Jan 22, 2016

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Pamola's Fury Left

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

This is the best moderate, easy access gully climb near Chimney Pond. Starts with ~ 200 m of easy snow scrambling or wallowing to the base of a nice ice flow. This is the left-hand of two prominent gullies running up to Pamola Peak.

P1 - 40-50m, fun WI3. Belay as up on the left side.
P2 - 40m, WI3/+. Belay up in cave on left side

Scramble to the top of Pamola peak, descend via Dudley trail to the left. Alternative, rap down the route; we did this to avoid the long scrambly descent.

Location 

Recognizable by the large rock avalanche cone at the base.

Either 1. Follow the blue-blazed Dudley trail to the base of the cliffs and then walk until you get to the start or

2. Cross the pond, following the left-most stream bed for a while until you see the avalanche cone that marks the start of the route, then head left.

Protection 

Screws.


Comments on Pamola's Fury Left Add Comment
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By Mr. G
Jan 28, 2016

Dan when did you climb this route?
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 28, 2016

I was there a few weeks ago. We had just had a big dump of snow, so our approach was hilariously slow. Armpit-deep wallowing to the start of the ice. If you have any more info to add for different conditions, that would be great.
By Ryan Gibbs
Mar 28, 2016
rating: WI3

Found this to have more ice than normal in late March. Closer to 2.75 pitches of ice ranging from 2-3. More thin ice up high, where simuling was the best approach. Lots of cool options heading right and left up high for mixed topouts instead of just a rock scramble.

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