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Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Diamond Area", The T 
American Beauty T 
Armadillo, The T 
Baron's Direct  T 
Flatiron T 
Pamola 5.0 T 
Pamola IV Ridge T 
Radio Nowhere T 
Wrong Chimney, The T 

Pamola 5.0 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13 [details]
FA: Monday September 8, 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round fun
Page Views: 1,311
Submitted By: Brian Oelberg on Sep 10, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route from Katahdin summit. I drew in where I...

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

We think we might have climbed a new route on Pamola, although it seems everything at Chimney Pond was climbed by the AMC in the 1920's, or Boy Scouts in the fifties, or Ben Townsend. We were aiming for Pamola IV but ended up on a different route, and there was no evidence that it had been climbed before.

The cruxes include climbing past two 40 foot chockstones in the Chimney, and the route itself has a few easy fifth class moves and a fair amount of shrubbery. It was a fun route in spite of loose rock, and follows an interesting spine of rock, like a crumbling vertical Knife Edge.

The PG-13 parts included the Chimney rubble crawl, and avoiding massive amounts of precarious loose rock all the way up...a lot of the climb should not be touched or it will fall. There are some new rock scars but the risk was tolerable if you are accustomed to climbing loose rock.

Location 

Pamola Peak above Chimney Pond, Baxter State Park...the ranger's red notebook wasn't much help, but the Pamola IV post explains the approach issues.
mountainproject.com/v/pamola-i...

We approached on the main trail to the Armadillo and then cut left to the base of waterfall gully, the obvious black waterfall at the top of the scree drainages. About forty yards left we ascended the Chimney, looking for a way to cut left to the base of Pamola IV. Loose wet and dirty rock prevented us from getting out of the Chimney, so we continued up past the first and second chockstones. Both require short 5th class moves but are easy to protect.

Above the second chockstone the rock quality improves and provides easy access to a rib of rock that leads to about forty feet below the summit of Pamola and the Dudley Trail. The obvious landmark is the second chockstone. At the top, a tower of rotten rock prevents a direct finish, but easy scrambling leads to the ridge.

Descent via Dudley Trail to Chimney Pond.

Protection 

Plenty of trad protection, nice big belay ledges. No bolts or anchors. Light trad rack was sufficient. We left a stopper in a crack near the top because the second didn't have the nut removal tool.


Photos of Pamola 5.0 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of approach from Chimney Pond.  Green is appr...
BETA PHOTO: View of approach from Chimney Pond. Green is appr...
Rock Climbing Photo: another view of Pamola.  Blue = Pamola IV and righ...
BETA PHOTO: another view of Pamola. Blue = Pamola IV and righ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the fifth pitch...
Looking down from the fifth pitch...

Comments on Pamola 5.0 Add Comment
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By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Jul 31, 2017

Hey, I'm psyched you had an awesome adventure, but lets not claim every trip up these mountains as a new route. There's possibilities for endless variations and if you follow this to the logical end there'll be hundreds of "routes" on here as people try and claim FAs.

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