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Palmreader Wall
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Palmreader T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Les White and Don Thompson 1984
Page Views: 2,508
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Rob Donnely leading Palm Reader. Photo credit: Kri...


Palmreader is the prominent 40' splitter in the middle of the face. Excellent quality. Wish it were 3 times as long!

Gear belay.

Descend to climber's right.


Light rack to 2".

Photos of Palmreader Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers in Indian Cove, not sure which route
Climbers in Indian Cove, not sure which route
Rock Climbing Photo: Palmreader Wall
BETA PHOTO: Palmreader Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Donnely belaying me up Palm Reader. Photo cred...
Rob Donnely belaying me up Palm Reader. Photo cred...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 11, 2015
By Josh Beck
Jan 4, 2003

This is a really fun route and an excellent route for the fledgling crack leader. It's short and not too strenuous and offers excellent jams and protection. One of the nicest routes in Indian Cove, actually, in my opinion.
By Mark Whaling
Jan 29, 2003

Wholeheartedly agree with Josh. One of the highest quality cracks I have climbed at JT. It was a frustrating lead before learning crack technique. Now, it's just pure fun--a nice validation of proper technique.
By Kelly
Jun 28, 2003

Very nice. If only much longer ... but that's true of 99.9% of the routes here.
By Steve Powell
Mar 4, 2005

one of the best in Jtree.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 2, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd give this three stars if it were twice as long ... protects well, and flat out fun!!! A must do when in the area...
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Two Stars, Too $hort, Too Bad! A fun crack.
By C Miller
Dec 13, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Enjoyable, but woefully short - even by Joshua Tree standards. Maybe a good warmup before heading to the Wonder Bluffs.
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Straight forward jams to exit right. Hand and fist sized pieces work well for the anchor.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice, straight in jamming from fingers to hands to a crux exit leaving the crack for face holds out right. Did this as an onsight solo and was less than thrilled with the somewhat reachy and commiting move right, but the holds are big and positive. Would take excellent pro if you're leading, and would be a good route for the budding 5.8 leader. Just wish it were longer. You can also access by scrambling in from the right from the "cove" of a few campsites if #66 is occupied and you don't want to wade straight through their site.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Would be a 5-star classic if twice as long, but still a nice tick. We had brutal winds the day we did it, and this was nice and sheltered.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 5, 2009

Good route; a little hard for the grade. Awesome move to exit!
By attila
Feb 11, 2010

Welcome to Hand Jam City! A bit harder than it looks. Protects well. Take #2 and #3 cams to build the anchor.
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 11, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If only this route was 40ft longer...I agree this route is a good first lead at 5.8...but keep in mind there is some hollow rock in the crack which is easily avoidable..the move out right was fun and committing

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