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Palmer Gulch

Routes Sorted
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Chipmunk Stampede T 
Mr. November Too T 
Mr. October Also T 
Spicy Thai Tuna T 
Three Yak Crack T 
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Palmer Gulch Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,436
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: harrison t on Mar 26, 2013


17° | -4°

7° | -9°

-1° | -9°

8° | 1°

25° | 13°
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There are some pretty good adventurous type routes up the nelson creek/palmer gulch area. They need to see some more traffic so they can be cleaned up a bit.


Comprised of Harney Peak and the ridge to the N of the massif, Nelson Creek Ridge. Palmer Gulch is home to countless Conn routes, a few new routes, and the Harney Peak ice flow in the winter. All routes are in the Black Elk Wilderness and require a bit of hiking to access.

Getting There 

Directions: From the Entrance of the memorial, continue NW on H-24 for 6.4 miles to Palmer Creek road. Head S on PC road for .9 miles to the PC trailhead.

Approach: (1.3 miles) from the trailhead, head S on the trail across the creek to intersect the lost cabin trail #2, take a left. Head E along the trail down to the nelson creek drainage to intersect a closed trail. Take a right and follow the drainage S up the closed trail for a while and eventually intersect the granite ridge (GPS N43.874200*W103.543767*). The first formation is Bow Spirit to the NE.
- For Harney Peak Massif - Cross the creek shortly after passing the granite ridge and head S again up the drainage. Follow a very faint trail while bush whacking, but you should be able to keep the large granite massif in view.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Palmer Gulch
Rock Climbing Photo: Route goes up nice hand cracks and chimneys to fin...

Spicy Thai Tuna 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  SD : Palmer Gulch
Climb into gully at the start of Mr. October Two and go right at the spectacular handcrack that slants to the right and set up belay under the roof 5.8 170ft. Traverse left ten feet to a sweet hand and finger crack and pull roof to the left. Go up huge chimney finding nice small gear in the face until you can place a 5 camalot in the large crack . Continue up the crack to set up a belay on a nice ledge 5.8 140ft. On pitch three traverse right place gear and then down climb10 feet and traverse...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Palmer Gulch Add Comment
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By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 28, 2013
Cause you shouldn't
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2013
From a technical standpoint, you can't add sub-areas to an area that has routes already listed in it.

You or an administrator would need to move that route out to a temporary area, add the sub-areas you want to add, then move the route back in to the sub-area where it belongs.

Whether you *should* add the areas I suppose is a different question best answered by a local. I did recently see someone was taking photos of photos from the new Busse guidebook and posting them on here as beta photos. That's probably not cool...
By Mike Housiaux
From: Rapid City
Jun 28, 2013
What are you trying to add? I know a trick or two.