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Palmer Gulch

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Mr. November Too T 
Mr. October Also T 
Three Yak Crack T 
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Palmer Gulch Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,794
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: harrison t on Mar 26, 2013

95° | 65°

86° | 58°

77° | 58°

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87° | 59°
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There are some pretty good adventurous type routes up the nelson creek/palmer gulch area. They need to see some more traffic so they can be cleaned up a bit.


Comprised of Harney Peak and the ridge to the N of the massif, Nelson Creek Ridge. Palmer Gulch is home to countless Conn routes, a few new routes, and the Harney Peak ice flow in the winter. All routes are in the Black Elk Wilderness and require a bit of hiking to access.

Getting There 

Directions: From the Entrance of the memorial, continue NW on H-24 for 6.4 miles to Palmer Creek road. Head S on PC road for .9 miles to the PC trailhead.

Approach: (1.3 miles) from the trailhead, head S on the trail across the creek to intersect the lost cabin trail #2, take a left. Head E along the trail down to the nelson creek drainage to intersect a closed trail. Take a right and follow the drainage S up the closed trail for a while and eventually intersect the granite ridge (GPS N43.874200*W103.543767*). The first formation is Bow Spirit to the NE.
- For Harney Peak Massif - Cross the creek shortly after passing the granite ridge and head S again up the drainage. Follow a very faint trail while bush whacking, but you should be able to keep the large granite massif in view.

Climbing Season

For the The Needles Of Rushmore area.

Weather station 1.3 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Palmer Gulch
Rock Climbing Photo: Wall right of the Harney Ice flow.

Mr. October Also 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Palmer Gulch
Start the same as Mr. November, but instead of heading left about 100 ft up just go straight up the crack until the end of the rope about 180ft total 5.6. You can go farther up the dihedral for about 30ft. and then traverse left around the corner continue traversing about 100ft to the left on a nice crack for about 50ft and then heading up and left placing some small cams straight up into a horizontal roof crack for protection. Then continue to the left and pull the offwidth crack roof and con...[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Comments on Palmer Gulch Add Comment
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By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 28, 2013
Cause you shouldn't
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2013
From a technical standpoint, you can't add sub-areas to an area that has routes already listed in it.

You or an administrator would need to move that route out to a temporary area, add the sub-areas you want to add, then move the route back in to the sub-area where it belongs.

Whether you *should* add the areas I suppose is a different question best answered by a local. I did recently see someone was taking photos of photos from the new Busse guidebook and posting them on here as beta photos. That's probably not cool...
By Mike Housiaux
From: Rapid City
Jun 28, 2013
What are you trying to add? I know a trick or two.

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