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Slapstick S 
Toiling Midgets S 

Palm Pilot 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Erik Kramer-Webb
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: A. Toiling Midgets 5.10 a/b * B. Palm Pilot 5.10d ...


This is a 3 bolt direct start to Toiling Midgets (5 bolts total to a 2-bolt anchor).

Begin just left of Cricket with well-protected face climbing and stemming. At the third bolt move left (crux) and up to the second bolt of Toiling Midgets. From here a friction move to the right (height dependent,10-) leads to a crack (1 to 2 inch CD useful here). The roof is protected by a bolt, and easier than it looks if you surmount it from the right (5.8).


5 bolts, 1 to 2 inch CD, 2 bolt belay/rap anchor.

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By Cho
Oct 5, 2012

Good route, well protected. Edging down low, then stemming and body english to get you through the crux. The rock is a little flaky, but should clean up with more ascents. I broke a foot hold off the roof section, but there are other options up there. Gets a lot of sun, so nice for the colder months.
By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10d. There are no rests on this route. Between bolt 2 and 3 involves serious stemming then getting in position for bolt 4 is another challenge.

STAY RIGHT after that. Can't move directly up cause we know. We did it last spring and a key foothold gaining the roof broke off. Now you need to stay right to gain it. There are still moves there to get it and the moves below are still the crux moves but the roof is harder now.

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