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Cactus Cliff
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Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
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Paleolithic Tool Traditions 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 1,397
Submitted By: Sean Hall on Dec 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).


Also known as Tool Boy.

The climb is located on the far right side of Cactus Cliff, on the face left of the prow where Affluenza is found. A short scramble gets you on the ledge, at the flake below the bolt line. Enjoy small pockets and edges on the smooth, solid face up to a horizontal crack. As you move up, a vertical crack will lead to slightly bigger holds and less technical feet. Beautiful line. 70 feet.


Seven camouflaged bolts to Fixe anchors.

Photos of Paleolithic Tool Traditions Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Luc Gruenther flashes Paleolithic Tool Traditions
Luc Gruenther flashes Paleolithic Tool Traditions

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By Joe Collins
Jan 27, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Worth doing if you're in the area. 5.11c/d- About the same difficulty as the two routes immediately to the right, Affluenza and Whiteman's Burden.
By Fred Knapp
Oct 6, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A decent route, but my partner and I both felt 11c.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 4, 2004

This route is not as good as the two to the right. Not even close. And it's not as hard either. Good route, but the ones to the right are superb; highest quality lines and stone.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005

This was a fun route and way harder than the paths to the right. Check out the comments from the previous posters - they are mostly about downgrading for clearly egotistical satisfaction. While certainly not .12b and not as sandbag as the classic four star Shelf routes - it is harder than you average Shelf .11d - this great route deserves a burn, its rate and its stars.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

Initially I planned on getting on the (2) 11c's to the right, but then got on this instead. Downrating is just mean. This felt 11d/12a as suggested by RT. Super sustained after the first 10-ft with a sucker rest under the roof. Hold on to the anchors. Although nothing stands out visually from the ground the movement on this one is alot better than it appears. So good.
By Tyler Scheer
From: Boulder. CO
Apr 10, 2011

This thing felt like 11+ climbing. The cruxes of this route are clipping a couple of bolts that could be six inches lower and a whole lot easier, not the climbing itself. Fun route, and safe, but haaaard clipping stances.

I agree with AC #2 - I'd call this a couple of letter grades harder than Affluenza.
By Mark Rolofson
Nov 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I have done this great route on several occasions. There is more than one way to do the crux. This makes a big difference on the rating, and I agree with the .11d/12a rating in Sharp End's 2005 guide for this reason. But really 5.11c? Give me a break. Compared to classic like Unusual Weather, this is a harder climb.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Good route, but the meat of it is kind of short. Still, it throws really thin and long moves at you, and if you think it is as hard or easier than the routes to the right, you are out of your mind. Those went down second go, but not even close on linking this one.

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