Paleface Slab Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Paleface Slab, Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
Paleface Slab is a clean face with a southerly aspect and relatively easy access in the Western Stronghold. Both Kerry's (1997) and Abbott's (2006) guidebooks list three routes. Two of these can be recognized by their SMC hangers.
At least two new additional tightly-bolted lines with big gray hangers have recently been installed. (Plus, there are a number of oddly placed old bolts in the waterstreak area where Feast of Friends is purported to go; I'm not sure what they belong to; the top bolt is a buttonhead with a Leeper hanger, so I'm not gonna try that one).
From the end of Forest Road 687, start up the standard approach toward Whale Dome, etc (e.g., up the northern wash, not Trail #279). After about 8-10 minutes, the trail to Paleface diverges left out of the creekbed. This point is marked by a huge dead, rotten oak tree on the left bank. Follow this overgrown path up a ridge, staying out of the boulder fields and aiming left of a small pinnacle until you are well left of Paleface. Keep climbing until you are at about the same elevation as the slab. Turn hard right and traverse over to the base.
The original 3 routes in Kerry's guidebook all share the Paleface rap anchor (2 bolts with quicklinks). It requires two 50m+ ropes to safely rap from there. The newer bolted lines have their own rap anchors, and also require two ropes to descend.
--Alternately, once, I lacked a second rope, and we took the opportunity to see if there is a scramble all the way to the top of the ridge and then down a gully to the west. There is.
Climbing Season For the West Stronghold area.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Paleface Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Paleface Slab
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Paleface Slab:
Ojo Blanco 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Featured Route For Paleface Slab
Lord of the Flies 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Arizona
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Paleface Slab
1st pitch: right crack of any established routes through a chimney roof area to a tree belay with an abundance of flies and lizards. 2nd pitch: short climb over a crack in a rock. 3rd pitch: very wide layback with a seated belay. Traverse to the left to start 4th pitch: up low angle pitch to complete the climb. Hike off the left (south) ravine to get back to the wash and re-approach to retrieve any packs....[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 4, 2012
Nice bit of climbing gents. I've looked at that water-streak for a long time. I seem to remember hearing there are roughly 10-15 routes established on different parts of Paleface. Many are unpublished. You might encounter some random bolts, these may be previously established routes.