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Paisano Direct 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Sean Leary, Justin Sommers
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Lurker on Jul 1, 2014

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world class 7c

Description 

The best route at the Aretes? For that matter, maybe the best route in northwestern California? Get on this thing and decide for yourself!

Long, steep, devious, and unrelenting. A few cruxes, with a lot of difficult climbing in-between. The first comes about 1/3 of the way up pulling past a couple of small pockets into a gaston. The second one involves moving left and around a bulge, out of a good pinch into some underclings/gastons. Third crux is a slightly scary mantle to the anchors. Full-value route on beautiful blue stone.

Protection 

Fixed draws, lower-off anchors.

Location 

Climbs the shallow dihedral/bulges to the left of a large alcove.


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