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Sunshine Face - Left Side
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B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 
Caliente T 
Chisholm Trail T 
Clockwork Orange T 
Domestic Friction S 
Euphoria T 
Hit It, Ethel T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 
Paisano Chimney T 
Runout in Reverse T 
Someone You're Not T 
Source, The T 
Tar and Feathers T 
Yaniro's Arch TR 

Paisano Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Callis and Larry Harrell, May, 1968
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

To get to this climb, scramble up and left along the base of the Sunshine Face. The route follows a deep, narrow chimney up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle. A crux overhang (fairly nice) leads to a tight, unpleasant 20 foot long squeeze chimney. At the top of the climb, walk and chimney behind Paisano Pinnacle to the broad Paisano Ledge. From there, you can downclimb Bye Gully or do a route (e.g. Continuation) to the top of the rock.

Protection 

Gear to 4 inches.


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By Phil Esra
May 13, 2013

Beta storm:

I was intimidated by the overhang--didn't look like there was a way to protect it that would keep me off the ledge (lots of slack in the rope because of the blocky traversing to get there). So I went right instead, and paid for it later with an awkward traverse to get to the base of the squeeze--not recommended.

The squeeze looks bad, but the angle of the main formation eases back, making it less strenuous. I think it's more like 10' than 20'. A single new #4 protected it "ok," a #5 would have been better. You might want a second big piece also, or just push the #5 toprope up ahead of you as you go. Pushing a 5.8 sounds about right--definitely not a sandbag. Much easier than the 5.9 squeeze after the Wilson Overhang on Steck-Salathe.

The squeeze spits you out at a block below the Paisano block. 2 bolt rap anchor on top of the block. We continued up the chimney behind the Paisano block--mostly easy but unprotected chimney/stemming (might be able to get a #6?), really fun and scary. (I scrambled up the slot to the far end of the block, then stemmed up and back toward the belay, and eventually got some tiny offset cams behind a fragile flake. A bolt on the arete is tantalizingly close, but requires a terrifyingly exposed hand traverse on bad or no pro.)

The path(s) of least resistance leads to a strenuous, steep, leaning, flaring hand crack--you can stem up to get pro, but eventually you have to give up the far wall and commit to the crack. Scarier for shorter people, because the stemming ends sooner. 5.10- maybe? The crack will take anything from a small nut to an orange mastercam to--eventually--a #2 camalot.

We tried to rap off Paisano back to the lower block, but the angle/direction was wrong and the rope wouldn't pull. So if you go to the top--and the climb isn't really worth doing if you don't--rap off the other side, toward Bye Gully etc.

I thought it was a fun obscurity. And if you're a wide fetishist who wants to do them all... this is one of them.
By Tradiban
Oct 23, 2014

After the squeeze belay from two bolts on top of the next block. You can rap from here or go up wide chimney and take Eyes Wide Shut 5.7 to the top. EWS starts in the wide chimney with a stem, clips one bolt, surmounts the ledge then goes to the arete for one more bolt.

#5 C4 is great for the off-width.

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