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Painting grades on rock with a marker...
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Jun 27, 2016
Classic 8A.nu fodder...this Jens guy, wow! Pat Goodman
From Fayetteville, WV
Joined Jun 12, 2007
198 points
Jun 27, 2016


Just as an FYI, this is a fairly common practice in parts of Europe.
Ken Noyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,912 points
Jun 27, 2016
In Chullila, Spain many of the routes would have the name and grade written in sharpie at the base. It was very helpful when combined with the guide to locate routes since there are minimal landmarks on the photos to locate the correct route. That being said I'd never advocate doing this in the states.

Now plaques on detached blocks like seen in Indian Creek don't bother me at all.
Tombo
From Boulder
Joined Feb 9, 2006
225 points
Jun 27, 2016
Maybe put lines on the route and circles at belay stations so it looks like guidebook photos?


Rock Climbing Photo: routefinding
routefinding
cragmantoo
Joined Mar 5, 2015
0 points
Jun 27, 2016
Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
133 points
Jun 27, 2016
As has been said, this is a common practice in much of Europe. I don't think that we have any business to critique or ridicule what they do at their own crags. the schmuck
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Feb 6, 2012
110 points
Jun 27, 2016
Some crags are equipped with that kind of graffiti, others - aren't. It's all 'bout local ethics. Pavel Burov
Joined May 6, 2013
25 points
Jun 27, 2016
Nathanael wrote:


Red river gorge is the only place I have ever see that done in the US.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
165 points
Jun 27, 2016
There are a couple routes in Mission Gorge here in San Diego with little plaques like at the Red, but they're typically at the TOP of the route. Kinda limits the usefulness... Mike N.
From San Diego, CA
Joined Oct 28, 2013
0 points
Jun 27, 2016
The only place at the Red where I've seen those plaques is in Muir Valley which is private property and therefore open to whatever the landowner allows or wants. Derek Lawrence
From Bailey
Joined Jan 1, 2001
385 points
Jun 27, 2016
Seen it at Kingston Quarry in NY. But it is a manufactured crag, complete with drilled pockets and more.

Common in Europe but not ubiquitous.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route tag in Switzerland.
Route tag in Switzerland.
Alex CV
From Greater NYC area
Joined Jun 17, 2011
50 points
Jun 28, 2016
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in AR has a few, like Crimp Scampi, for the really high grade routes. It is private property, and stamped on a small brass plate. Maybe bad taste in the wilderness, but not much different than a trail sign or a blaze marking the way. Sharpie is kinda ghetto.

Rock Climbing Photo: Crimp Scampi 5.10d brass plate route tag at Horses...
Crimp Scampi 5.10d brass plate route tag at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in AR.
Faulted Geologist
From Lawrence, KS
Joined Jan 7, 2015
8 points
Jun 28, 2016
cragmantoo wrote:
Maybe put lines on the route and circles at belay stations so it looks like guidebook photos?

And color code the holds to make it easier for the gym climbers....
cragmantoo
Joined Mar 5, 2015
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
I wish it were more common in the states. In actuality, most of us buy huge expensive guidebooks or spend waaaay to much time look at climbing porn on the proj. Few of us in the states take the true wild approach and just show up and blindly climb shit. So wouldn't it be just a little bit sensible to have this practice applied here and there? Indian creek is a good example of labeling routes with placards instead of on the wall itself but every year some holier than thou purist breaks em. If you want unknown adventure it exists everywhere, but in a world renowned place like the creek, those little scraps of rock so beautifully inscribed and labeled should be there to make it a better place for all to climb. Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
The Poison Ivy Wall at West Point, NY has the routes names (or maybe numbers I forgot)spray-painted on. However it is also private property (well semi-private since owned by the government) RichBeBe
From New York City, NY
Joined Oct 26, 2013
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
redpoint Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
mountainproject.com/v/saint-an...

Rock Climbing Photo: kamou
kamou


very sad
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
168 points
Jun 28, 2016
I don't know why but the sharpie looks awful to me, but the nice little metal plaques seem cool and useful. Maybe because one looks like graffiti, but the other looks like a hanger? Anyway, I'd love to see those metal plates, I've gotten on the wrong route more than once and wasted my time on a route much harder or easier than I wanted. But even though I'd like it, it also feels like another step in the gym-ification of the world. Bill Shubert
From Lexington, MA
Joined Jul 20, 2012
50 points
Jun 28, 2016
Even though I posted that it is done at West Point, I do not want it done. Half of the adventure to me is finding the correct route. RichBeBe
From New York City, NY
Joined Oct 26, 2013
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
Mudflap Girl, Glenwood Canyon. I like route markers if they are creative.

Rock Climbing Photo: When you find this marker, you know you're at the ...
When you find this marker, you know you're at the base of the Mudflap Girl.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
163 points
Jun 28, 2016
Bill Shubert wrote:
feels like another step in the gym-ification of the world.


I agree. Finding the correct route really isn't typically difficult and I don't believe we should treat every crag like it's a climbing gym.
Painting things on the rocks just seems unecessary and looks bad.
Might as well color code all the holds on route to dumb things down for anyone who might have trouble figuring it out...
cragmantoo
Joined Mar 5, 2015
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
If you want little signs at every route just stay in the gym where you belong. Part of the adventure is route finding. If you got sandbagged on a route you probly deserved it. JamisonKnowlton
From Gloucester, MA
Joined Apr 11, 2015
75 points
Jun 28, 2016
Tim Lutz wrote:
at a sport crag?!?! I've been doing it wrong! I'll have to downgrade all my ticks a letter grade because I knew where the route was.


Golf has each hole number and par marked for your convenience. Enjoy.
Air Alexy
Joined May 13, 2010
0 points
Jun 28, 2016
Goodness. It is the practice in Europe, & it isn't the practice in the US of A. End of story. By the way, go to the Verdon and tell me that it is just like the gym because they paint route names & grades on the rock. the schmuck
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Feb 6, 2012
110 points
Jun 28, 2016
Tim Lutz wrote:
at a sport crag?!?! I've been doing it wrong! I'll have to downgrade all my ticks a letter grade because I knew where the route was.


Is this thread sport climb specific? No it is not. A lot of trad climbs now have little plaquards marking the climb. (i.e. Indian creek) If it's a sport climb, all the more reason not to mark up the rock or put little signs. Isn't a line of bolts going up the rock enough of a route marker?
JamisonKnowlton
From Gloucester, MA
Joined Apr 11, 2015
75 points
Jun 28, 2016
I saw this for the first time at Lime Kiln Canyon in northern AZ a couple of months ago. Not on too many routes but on several on the main wall. Some were written in chalk, but a few in what appeared to be black sharpie. Since I don't do a lot of sport climbing and very little out west I was not sure if it was common practice. Made it convenient to get a bearing, but found it a little off putting aesthetically and gym-esk. Chris Massey
Joined Oct 1, 2012
5 points


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