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Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 
Blue Autumn T 
Bob Dylan T 
Climb left behind, The T 
Duress S 
Easy Off S 
In Too Deep T 
M.F 206'ers T 
Manxome Foe, The S 
Painted Black T 
Party in Your Pants T 
Pats crack T 
Puppies in the Blender T 
Ride 'em Cowboy S 
Shrinking Ball Disease T 
Snooze Ya Lose S 
Spinning Mars T 
Under Duress S 
Welcome To Vantage T 

Painted Black 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, 8/1989
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: geoff georges on Mar 9, 2016

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Description 

The Yoder description lured me into trying this. He calls this " a potential area classic". I am always up for an adventure, and this was a wild adventure, good thing there was no belayer or anyone below because every hold I tried came off in my hands. The edge of the crack crumbled off when I attempted to finger lock or hand jam.I used both cracks most of the way up, and I guess Bill and Paul used the right side crack which was less loose but still very dirty. On a positive note, there was no pidgin shit because it was too thin.
The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.
Still might be an area classic some day.

STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY

Location 

right side of column that has Easy Off.

Protection 

gear to 3". mostly finger size gear. No anchor.


Comments on Painted Black Add Comment
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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 9, 2016

how's it supposed to become an area classic if you tell people to stay away from it!? haha
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 9, 2016

Good times at the old choss pile. It never ceases to amaze me how Bill Robins would ground up OS these first ascents, so scary to even TR. I have tried to lead some of these but now TR solo to not endanger anyone, and be sure nobody is below.