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Paintbrush Arete 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 185'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Sam Lightner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Flaco Flores on Oct 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a very unique and interesting route! You start up the first pitch on the far right side of the El Nino Wall. Follow the glue in bolts up and to the right (towards the arete) and traverse towards the anchors for Lost At Sea. Once you traverse right far enough you start to climb up a few bolts to the end of the first pitch (5.8). There are set draws on the first pitch so cleaning the route isn't a nightmare. From there you start the second pitch and continue to traverse slightly right towards the arete and the roof (aka the crux of the route). After pulling the roof you have some gorgeous climbing and the best views in South Piney Canyon, take some time to enjoy them!

Location 

This route is on the far right of the El Nino wall (Black/Slabby wall) that traverses right to the arete. It starts just to the right of the Juan De Fuca route.

Protection 

There are fixed draws on the first pitch (5.8) to make cleaning the route more manageable. You will want to bring 10 draws with you for this route to do the second pitch. It is highly recommended that you climb this route with a 70 meter rope. You can climb it with a true 60 meter rope, but it involves rappelling off the top anchors to the lower anchors and maxing out your rope lengths to the ground. When lowering from the lower anchors make sure to put knots at the end of your rope and lower over the overhanging section of The Bermuda Triangle wall and onto the massive boulder beneath. Get ready for one of the most fun rappels you can do while sport climbing. ***Make sure you have a knot in the end of your rope when belaying the entire route with a 60 meter rope.


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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Oct 18, 2015

This takes a striking feature, and offers up a surprising dose of exposure for the moderate grade, but the quality of the climbing itself didn't match the aesthetics of the line IMO. The quality of the rock is pretty suspect throughout both pitches, with lots of crunchy features both big and small. Given the spaced bolting on the first pitch and the final bit of the second pitch, there is potential to log some sizable falls if you rip off a hold. Both my partner and I have climbed lots of fresh dolomite, and we both felt pitch one was a fairly heads up lead for the grade given the current state of the route. I wouldn't suggest it to anyone not familiar with moving delicately over dubious rock, especially anyone who's lead limit is near 5.8/5.9!
Also, the anchors are vertically staggered and not equalized on both pitches, not sure if additional hardware was intended to be added or what...
By Jason Todd
From: Cody, WY
Oct 19, 2015

Also, the anchors are vertically staggered and not equalized on both pitches, not sure if additional hardware was intended to be added or what...

I haven't seen this specific anchor, but given that Sam put it up, I'd guess it is a "French Style" anchor. A pretty trick (and safe) system that is fighting an uphill battle for acceptance in the US. There is no equalization in a French Style anchor, but then again there is only the illusion of actual equalization in most anchors with rigid hardware.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Oct 21, 2015

Jason, you are right... French style anchor that was certainly not an "afterthought." It is a better system... you don't need two equalized 10,000 pound bolts when one with a back up makes for an easier pull, less kinking, and can be replaced easier. You don't use two 5,000 pound locking carabiners, double up your waist belt on your harness, or climb on twin 11's. It's a better system this way.

As per the climbing, I agree the first pitch is heads up for the grade. It will likely always have some loose rock. The second pitch did not have much that was loose and in my opinion was spectacular and fun.

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