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Icehouse Canyon
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Painslut 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Hello friggin Kitty
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Aug 2, 2015

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Up on some slabby business above the chimney secti...

Description 

Another scary route up San Gabriel granite. First pitch is 60 meters long, second is about 100ft or so and ends at the big pine at the top of the headwall, which has served as the rappel anchor in past years.

The rock is a little water worn and presents mostly smooth sloping holds, chockstones, and awkward chimneys with step-arounds with 200ft+ of exposure. Don't fall. Protection is challenging at times. The cracks are either dirty, or flaring, or both. Expect 50ft+ runouts on easier terrain (up to 5.7).

Pitch 1 belay is way up near the top at a small Sycamore growing out from underneath a very large and wobbly sharp rock. I backed this up with two shaky cams in offset cracks. DFU. Be gentle.

Route was put up solo via Silent Partner and 60m rope while I was sick and unable to eat solid food as a result of dental work following several major tooth infections.

Location 

This route climbs the buttress next to the Sheep Canyon Rappel Route.

Info on that here: dankat.com/advents/sheepc.htm

Hike up Icehouse Canyon until you cross the stream. Look at your map. See Sheep Canyon? Go up Sheep Canyon until you're stopped by the headwall. Look at the beta photo. See that? That's all I can give you. It's quite simple. You probably shouldn't be climbing this route anyway. It's scary, oooh.

Protection 

I brought a single rack from tiny cams and nuts to #3 and a 60m rope. If I had to do it again, I'd bring a 70m rope and a few more tiny cams. Protection can be hard to find and often needs an aid climber's eye to figure out.


Photos of Painslut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down partway up the chimney section, which...
Looking down partway up the chimney section, which...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the red line, breh. Second pitch follows 5....
BETA PHOTO: Follow the red line, breh. Second pitch follows 5....

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