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North Fork of Taylor
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Pain Chamber 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 440', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brandon Gottung and Karl Kvashay. FFA: Brandon Gottung and Ethan Newman
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime other than deep winter, the route never gets sun.
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Aug 20, 2016

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Following P3, deep in the Pain Chamber.

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Feel The Pain 

The Pain Chamber is an incredibly beautiful, brutal route. Cool face climbing accesses the clean crack system on the left side of the giant arrowhead-shaped pillar that the route tunnels behind and summits.

P1: 5.11a. 7m. Left rising traverse past three bolts to a comfortable exposed ledge below the immaculate left-facing corner.

P2: 5.11d. 48m. Good progress on hand and fist jams leads to 80 feet of vicious off-fist finally opening up into a squeeze that feels cruel at the end of an exhausting lead. Belay at the good stance in the dark slot on #2 camalots.

P3: 5.10+. 45m. A fun seamed-out flare (decent fixed pin and micro gear) leads up into a stunning tunneling passage to a cool 5-inch gap feature and a bolt to clip. Belay at some fixed stoppers deep in the chamber. Headlamp useful at belay.

P4: 5.11b. 33m. First climb up and into the darkness following finger and hand cracks then squeeze, slither and squirm out into the light. One bolt on the outside protects the wildly exposured, awesome exit moves. Finish up the final grueling 6 opening to 12-inch corner to the top of the pillar.

Implements 

I recommend a full single set from blue ballnut to blue big bro, with double #2s and four to eight #4s (or #1 bigbros). A selection of tiny stoppers is useful. Big Bros of all sizes are great to have but a #9 VG makes the blue and green unnecessary. Many bolts have been added since the FA, making it a well-equipped outing.

Location 

See approach for Tucupit occidentalis. From T.occidentalis, walk down the broken ledge systems towards the north face. There is a Rhus shrub to rap from down to the big bivy ledge or downclimb. Another rappel from the tree to the ledge with a small pillar. Tunnel through the pillar to pitch 1.

Descent 

From two-bolt anchor, rap 45m down into the 2 bolt anchor on Tucupit nova then 57m down to the nice bivy ledge.


Photos of Pain Chamber Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pain Chamber
BETA PHOTO: The Pain Chamber
Rock Climbing Photo: Pain Chamber topo
BETA PHOTO: Pain Chamber topo

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